after developing a running fault on rh cylinder not firing at idle then kicking in after a handfull of throttle decided to give the carbs a good goin over in the ultrasonic tank new from santa
total strip down and cleaned with fairy then with carb cleaner
fired up tonight and still no different only runs on lh and rh will not even kick in now !
tried swapping carbs round no difference
reeds are sitting tight to cage with no visable indescrepancies
fuel runs freely from both outlets off tap
fitted in fuel filters to each line
new gaskets to reed casing and inlet manifold ( no cracks )
jets have been cleaned again in the tank and blown through
checked float height looks ok no leaks from overflow when left in prime
any ideas ? electrical ?
running problem
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your extensive investigation of the fuel side probably only leaves electrical...
check sparklead/cap for good contact to plug... try some CRC/WD inside cap incase of moisture or dirt/dust no allowing good contact - i think it is possible for air trapped inside cap can heat up and partly or totally pop up cap too
remove plug check condition - electode - is it sparking when out grounded connected - how old and dirty are the plugs - careful not to slip and break KIP valves in top of head
remove exhaust pipe and look inside cylinder for condition of bore/piston - how many miles has motor done since last refresh
is there lube visible in entire length of the injection pipe - no bubbles
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fuel
you could have swapped carbs to alternate side this would have determined if it was a fuel supply problem if the side swapped too
elec
and as MJ suggested swapping plugs/leads to other side
============
your rev counter is functioning normally?
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your extensive investigation of the fuel side probably only leaves electrical...
check sparklead/cap for good contact to plug... try some CRC/WD inside cap incase of moisture or dirt/dust no allowing good contact - i think it is possible for air trapped inside cap can heat up and partly or totally pop up cap too
remove plug check condition - electode - is it sparking when out grounded connected - how old and dirty are the plugs - careful not to slip and break KIP valves in top of head
remove exhaust pipe and look inside cylinder for condition of bore/piston - how many miles has motor done since last refresh
is there lube visible in entire length of the injection pipe - no bubbles
============
fuel
you could have swapped carbs to alternate side this would have determined if it was a fuel supply problem if the side swapped too
elec
and as MJ suggested swapping plugs/leads to other side
============
your rev counter is functioning normally?
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running fault
Have you tried new plugs i also changed the coil it sorted the problem
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thanks for quick reply
swapped leads over with no effect , checked and set plugs to manual then tested for spark and revealed rh plug was dead ! took one off the s
kicked over the kr1 ..... then loads of smoke from both pipes floating out of the garage !
the plugs in both bikes run the br10es should i stick with these or would 9s
be better ? the kr1 will be getting a few mods when i work my way round and source a pair of 35 inlets did look into a possibly modding some arctic cat ones but struggled to find out specs / dimensions hard work , as dealers were not helpful , anyone been sucessfull using these ?
cheers again all , karl
swapped leads over with no effect , checked and set plugs to manual then tested for spark and revealed rh plug was dead ! took one off the s
kicked over the kr1 ..... then loads of smoke from both pipes floating out of the garage !
the plugs in both bikes run the br10es should i stick with these or would 9s
be better ? the kr1 will be getting a few mods when i work my way round and source a pair of 35 inlets did look into a possibly modding some arctic cat ones but struggled to find out specs / dimensions hard work , as dealers were not helpful , anyone been sucessfull using these ?
cheers again all , karl
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10s for race track
9s for road (standard or hard or fast riding)
8s for slow/traffic riding where oil buildup/fouling may be problematic
above is a guide, you can choose from any of the above - if you had problems on a cooler one fouling go 1 hotter
8 = hotter , 10=colder plug
the KR-1S had cooler plugs (BR9ES/10) than KR-1 (8/9)
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10s for race track
9s for road (standard or hard or fast riding)
8s for slow/traffic riding where oil buildup/fouling may be problematic
above is a guide, you can choose from any of the above - if you had problems on a cooler one fouling go 1 hotter
8 = hotter , 10=colder plug
the KR-1S had cooler plugs (BR9ES/10) than KR-1 (8/9)