It wasn't me!JanBros wrote: ↑Sat Mar 25, 2017 12:17 am you know a circlip has a direction ? it can be mounted the right way or the wrong way.
they are made by stamping and because of tha, they have e side with sharp edges and a side with rounded edges.
the sharp edge must always be placed to the outside (as in the side to which it might be pressed of. sometimes that's inside).
There is no damage to anything I can see, gear teeth,bearings shafts , nothing. weird. Everything is like new.I might have found the growl
, as it was speed related I am hoping the clearance between the sprocket bolts and the wheel were too close. With the new rubber dampers in the wheel , the clearance might have closed up under a load then reopened after slowing to a certain speed. I shortened the bolts. I wont know if it is fixed until I get the bike back together. Here's some before and after shots.
On this snap ring/circlip the question is, what direction is the trust directed ?JanBros wrote: ↑Sat Mar 25, 2017 12:17 am you know a circlip has a direction ? it can be mounted the right way or the wrong way.
they are made by stamping and because of tha, they have e side with sharp edges and a side with rounded edges.
the sharp edge must always be placed to the outside (as in the side to which it might be pressed of. sometimes that's inside).
I am guessing an assembly error , the offending two rings fell off somehow , and when the main gear was installed it went without them, but they were left inside that area . They couldn't migrate from another area the oil holes are too small . It is still a stretch because of no damage! . ](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
oh! some one didnt fit them last time the engine was stripped. well back to the local friendly engineering shop, 1x 1mm 2x 1.5mm 1x 1.4mm shim and so on hopefully end of next week the engine will be rebuilt. pics to follow
Boy I just read through your thread, wowdougindoors wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2017 10:39 pm Pepsi....frame should be back tuesday 21st will post pics, engine has been stripped and partially rebuilt, thats when the problems started. bolting the 2 half's of the crank cases together i noticed the cap head bolts were up to torque but not holding the cases together, bolts to long? streched? well out they come again grind off 2mm clean off sealant and refit bolts,now the fun starts, were did i put that shim for the kick start idler gear and the shims for the crankshaft centre gear?
By the way Tim thanks for the manual all those years ago lol. without it i would be knackered, i will give you 1st pickings on all the spares l have over when she's finished.
and I thought I was going through the tandem ringer! After I read it I began to wonder about my pinion splines to crank splines fits , they feel very nice with just very little play, I could throw an indicator on them but I am thinking just enough to feel maybe .001-.002"? You would think the dual gear main clutch gear that ties them together with its offset gear teeth and damper would pull that tiny slop out of the gear train? Here's a movie, probably cant see enough to say. I am waiting for snap rings and some other parts so I'm just staring at it for now.
Any guesses? 
.010" on the front and .006" on the rear splines Hi, It does not sound bad at idle , so it will go back together as is and hope.Right now I'm waiting for a gasket set from Japan . I would be interested if you could throw an indicator on yours to see what the clearances are.dougindoors wrote: ↑Sun Apr 02, 2017 11:30 am You will who if they are worn as the engine will sound like a bag of nails on idle or below 1500rpm, as you increase the revs the noise will go. So if it doesn't rattle on idle don't worry t doesn't affect the running just dammed annoying. I tried loctite 660 without success, it's the spines that wear not the dampers, I had a quote to redo the splines on the crank, ouch! So I bought a pair of A2 cranks from Aus. Just got to fit them now.
