Looking good,has given me some inspiration to get my B2 sorted for next year!
Rebuild tips,
Use a good quality non setting case sealent such as threebond silver or similar.
Check and clean all dowels and do a dry build to make sure it all goes together easily.
Im guessing your fitting new pistons?
Chamfer the piston skirt to aid lubrication using a couple of decent needle files,half round and straight.
Make sure the gudgeon pin is a sliding push fit in the piston,sometimes they fit one way round better with pattern piston kits,if its tight its usually a burr in the piston boss,use some wet/dry wrapped round a small rod to remove.
Use decent C clips,genuine seem ok along with most jap piston kits,i use Yam TZ250 4DP,make sure you fit them at 180 degrees to the extractor slot,i usually dress the slot after fitting the clips as you can get a burr when fitting.
Dont whatever you do fit the Tail Type clips!I was supplied them with my last Mitaka kit,there designed for pistons with no extractor slot and will eventually wear through the tail cause the gudgeon pin is constantly rubbing it.
You can cut the tail off and use this type providing they are a reasonable thickness,mine were very thin and weak and could bve fitted with no effort so were binned.
Check the port windows for sharpness,some company's dont dress the windows after replating and this will wear your rings out in no tima at all.
If there original plating(its a darker colour and has no visible honeing marks) Check the plating around the rear ports for signs of flaking,it normally leaves a square shape around one side of the port which is shiny and has a pronounced edge to it.
Check the length of the barrels,they can be different heights which will lead to probs when you put the head on,namely powervalves seizing in there bores and an uneven squish band.
If they are slightly different give them to a decent engineering firm to correct.
check the top of the bore for det erosion,this occurs cause the head gasket is larger than the bore leaving a pocket,if its bad it can lead to head gasket failure,or the plating will start flaking off.
If the barrels have been plated make sure you have a small chamfer around the top of bore,if not dress it with an round oil stone or needle file,same goes for the port windows.
Its a good idea to assemble the powervalve assembly before you drop the top end on just to make sure it all works as should.
If alls ok then fit the barrels,torque half way,then fit the head and torque fully,then finally fully tighten the base nuts.
If you need to disassemble in future to replace pistons its best to leave the top end assembled and remove as 1 unit,saves disturbing the head gasket.
Lastly,use a good quality fully synthetic oil for assembly and running,if your tracking it ditch the pump and pipes,block the reed blocks with nylon number plate screws and remove the pump cable from the junction box.
Run either Motul 800 road race or castrol A747 at 30.1 for track use,for road use on pump, silkolene Pro2,castrol TTS or Motul 800 Off road.
I also remove the centre of the stat for track use.
Run a decent gear oil like silkolene SRG75.
plugs,B9EGV for road/B10EV for track,
Hope this helps
Look forward to seeing it finished.
ATB
Dave
art flaking
BEFORE.
AFTER
Ready to rebuild any tips ?
Ok here we go !