fork strip

[tescr500]

Hi all does anyone know anything about the front forks, the reason i asked is i have 2 sets 1 pair has long springs and the nut thing inside to undo them, the other pair has short srprings with aluminium sleeve but no nut socket type thing to grip to undo them, but fortunatley i was able to undo that pair, the other pair has the socket type thing looking at you but i can't undo them with out knowing what size it is to make a tool would you know this, but also what is the difference between the 2 pairs as i have explained if any, im sure going by looking at the parts list the long springs are the original spec, cheers wayne

[JanBros]

KR1 and KR-1S have different springs (in length too I believe).

[tescr500]

i'll sort some photo's later in the week to see what you think, beer oclock now and food time

[SP_BOTT]

Hi, I have mine stripped down at the moment if you want anything measured etc, best way to get them apart is a rattle gun on the bottom allen bolt, don't remember any socket/nut things inside, but think you possibly mean the damper tube where you neeed 'special tool....'

[tescr500]

yeah on the top of the damper unit there is a pattern that looks like the inside of a socket, i pinched a 24mm nut between m12 nut n bolt and used 2 extension bars to get to it down the fork tube, i tried air gun, hammer drill no go unless i gripped the inside which i did as i explained but i will post some photo's of the inners 2x pair kr1 forks different damper and springs cheers wayne.

UPDATE SORRY I DID GET IT UNDONE WITH THE PINCHED NUT AS ABOVE

My Head is spinning out of control.
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[KR-1R]

viewtopic.php?p=43034

... - take a wooden broom stick, place the fork leg over broom stick, bounce leg up and down a few times to imprint the shape onto end of broomstick - shape with a stanley knife use shaped end to stop inside turning.

Easy Peasy

Salty

viewtopic.php?p=21791

... To remove that Allen bolt, you do realise you have to remove the forks, take out the springs etc & old oil, compress the leg & slider together . With a torch look down the now empty leg, you will see what looks like a 20mm ish socket (out of a socket set ) staring back, this is what the original Allen bolt is screwed to through the atm of the slider. You need to find a bolt ( prefer high tensile ) the right size to fit that socket. I have welding equipment. So welded the bolt to a bar which extends it out of the length of the leg then I welded a tee handle to that.> So you hold on to that and unscrew said Allen bolt. rh/ thread Again you can use a high tensile bolt as an Allen key, if you dont have the right size....probly obvious but keep all the bits in order, & watch for the copper seal under the Allen bolt. Either replace it or anneal it... two alternatives. get somebody else to do it, or change your riding style to suit soggy forks Iv'e always found the seals to be a bit of a pig to remove on an old bike even doing it fully stripped so would think not on without stripping.....If anyone reads this and its flawed please correct. Alan.

[hego66]

Putting the spring bsck in with plenty of preliad on is usually enough to undo the bottom bolt with an impact gun

[Tambo]

Putting the spring bsck in with plenty of preliad on is usually enough to undo the bottom bolt with an impact gun

If it's still spinning at that, you can put a ratchet strap round to partially compress the fork, and that'll do the trick.

[kwackman12]

Sounds like the aluminium sleeve is a spacer that comes with after market springs, I had a set from WP "I think" & they came with the spacers, worked very well on my race bike I kept the air gap as standard but replaced the oil with a 50/50 combination of sae10/sae15 so it gave a viscotity of 12.5 "if that makes sense"