kr1 engine in rs frame

[scooble]

interesting rear shock arrangement.

[streetfighter_danny]

interesting rear shock arrangement.

yeah it is interesting,the aprilia frame using the original swingarm would not work as the chain drive is on the right hand side.so i have modded the frame and fitted a cagiva mito swingarm with left hand chain drive.using an ohlins shock from a 2007 cbr 1000 fitted straight into the swingarm shock mount without using a shock linkage.made the top shock mount bolted to the modded and strengthened sub frame.tested the shock on the bike and it works very well.also fully adjustable.

[JanBros]

ive had the forks clamped into the yokes and the front wheel on and i have 3 inches between the tyre and the sparkplug caps.remember guys these pics are about 5 weeks old and i have done lots to this project since.will update with some new pics soon.

sorry to say this, but in my opinion this bike will be a no-go

you say you have 3 inches. in the position as in the picture, this might be true. but don't forget the suspension travel. how many (if any left) do you still have when the forks are fully compressed ?
and don't forget : under havy braking, forks bend (and a lot more than you would imagine !) . I asked a suspension-specialist once, and he told me to have at least 4cm (about 1.6inch) of space between the front wheel and any other part, with the forks fully compressed.

and I have very serious doubts about the rear suspension setup
where is the sub frame reinforced ? I don't thinck the bars going to the rear are strong enough.
how much wheel travel do you have with this setup ?
will you find a spring soft enough ?
your rear looks to be way up in the air, what's the angle off the forks like this ?

[streetfighter_danny]

ive had the forks clamped into the yokes and the front wheel on and i have 3 inches between the tyre and the sparkplug caps.remember guys these pics are about 5 weeks old and i have done lots to this project since.will update with some new pics soon.

sorry to say this, but in my opinion this bike will be a no-go

you say you have 3 inches. in the position as in the picture, this might be true. but don't forget the suspension travel. how many (if any left) do you still have when the forks are fully compressed ?
and don't forget : under havy braking, forks bend (and a lot more than you would imagine !) . I asked a suspension-specialist once, and he told me to have at least 4cm (about 1.6inch) of space between the front wheel and any other part, with the forks fully compressed.

and I have very serious doubts about the rear suspension setup
where is the sub frame reinforced ? I don't thinck the bars going to the rear are strong enough.
how much wheel travel do you have with this setup ?
will you find a spring soft enough ?
your rear looks to be way up in the air, what's the angle off the forks like this ?

hi jan,this is a a streetfighter project not an original kr.the only kr parts on this build is the engine,running gear and wheels.i will show you a pic of a street fighter rear end then compare it to mine.the engine isnt mounted at the front in the pics.just propped up by a metal stand.once the engine is mounted correctly it will be more vertical than in the pic.with plenty of clearance when forks are fully compressed.rear shock is an ohlins fully adjustable item.i have sat and bounced on the back end to test the shock and works very well to my surprise.subframe is strengthened with 5mm alloy angle iron across the top 2 members where the shock bolts to.the spring is soft enough and like i say can be adjusted for rebound,compression damping,ride height and spring stiffness ect.plenty of settings to play with.ive even had the spanny chambers bolted on with no clearance issues.will post pics when ive finished bolting up the engine with the chambers fitted.will take detailed pics with measuring tape to show clearance tolerances just so you dont think im pulling your leg.lol.pic of streetfighter rear end just for you jan.



they look the business to me and dont look too high.i know kr1s are low to the ground because there an old design.the bike im building is a more modern look besides its a streetfighter.

[JanBros]

subframe is strengthened with 5mm alloy angle iron across the top 2 members where the shock bolts to

it's the bars that form the subframe (starting at the main frame) that worry me.
they ain't made to handle suspension forces

[streetfighter_danny]

bike how it is at the moment.need to jack up front of engine a little.also need to fabricate the exhaust chambers.

parts on order 2009 r6 seat unit and under tray,rs 250 mudguard,piaggio scooter headlamp.

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[scooble]

looks like it might be just a little bit twitchy - don't fancy riding that on a bumpy road!

[KR-1R]

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make sure the seat has plenty of padding

for when those 4 screws tear through the subframe

how thick is that mount plate - how you done a bending stress calculation?

premature brain ejaculation: if the rider weights 100kg and there is maybe a 3:1 leverage ratio (swingarm), and a dynamic load (2x) when you hit a bump thats like 600kg (6kN Force)

the standard carbs will not function at that angle - but maybe you have something else in mind.

but youre not done yet and all the mockers will wait to be proved wrong

[streetfighter_danny]

looks like it might be just a little bit twitchy - don't fancy riding that on a bumpy road!

only one way to find out if the handling is twitchy then i will overcome the problem.these builds are trial and error.

[streetfighter_danny]

.
.
make sure the seat has plenty of padding

for when those 4 screws tear through the subframe

how thick is that mount plate - how you done a bending stress calculation?

premature brain ejaculation: if the rider weights 100kg and there is maybe a 3:1 leverage ratio (swingarm), and a dynamic load (2x) when you hit a bump thats like 600kg (6kN Force)

the standard carbs will not function at that angle - but maybe you have something else in mind.

but youre not done yet and all the mockers will wait to be proved wrong

the mounting plate is alluminium angle at 6mm thick fastened wth 4 m6 allen bolts through top 2 spars.then there is to pieces of the same angle underneath the mount plate which is fastend by 4 more m6 allen bolts which the shock eye is secured to with a m10 bolt.seems very solid to me and the sock works very well.if i find any probs with the frame flexing then it can be strengthened,but i think it will hold pretty well.

the carb problem...im going to raise the front of the engine so that the carbs sit level.i was going to make some short manifold pipes but would rather lift the engine.i have 7 inches of clearance between the bottom of the spanny chambers and ground,and 3 inches between plugs and centre of tyre.

[KR-1R]

did someone mention OIL COOLER...

[JanBros]

the mounting plate is alluminium angle at 6mm thick fastened wth 4 m6 allen bolts through top 2 spars.then there is to pieces of the same angle underneath the mount plate which is fastend by 4 more m6 allen bolts which the shock eye is secured to with a m10 bolt.seems very solid to me and the sock works very well.if i find any probs with the frame flexing then it can be strengthened,but i think it will hold pretty well.

I don't ...

im going to raise the front of the engine so that the carbs sit level.i was going to make some short manifold pipes but would rather lift the engine.i have 7 inches of clearance between the bottom of the spanny chambers and ground,and 3 inches between plugs and centre of tyre.

* if you raise the front off the engine, will the front sprocket still be in line ?
* looking at that last pic : no way you'll have enough front wheel clearance when the forkes are compressed. look at the waterpipe, and then it even doesn't have the hose fitted yet. even with the engine lifted (can't be much or you'll have to cut into the frame), just look at where the tire already is now (under the engine and not in front off it !!). when the forks compress, the tire comes even more backwards
have you taken the springs out the forks yet and fully compressed the forks ? at that point, you still need 4cm off clearance : forks bend a lot under hard breaking. (please take a picture for me in this position )

it's not that I just want to enoy you, it's just that to me, this all looks like a waste off time and effort .

[JanBros]

my shock is also mounted on the subframe. but I've strengthenned it by welding extra aluminium bars on the side, and most important, I've added tough bars that bring the suspensionforces directly to the main frame.

tested and approved already with the misses at the back.

[ScottaKR]

I agree 100% with JanBros here.
I'm thinking that rear shock arrangment is going to self-destruct after the bike goes over the first few bumps in the road, and youll need a proctologist to retrieve the shock unit.
Then again, it may just last long enough for the front wheel to get jammed against the motor under load, sending you off in spectacular style.
Sorry, but I just can't see that setup ever working.

[buzinc]

With all this talk about riding and handling the bike, what about starting it up in the first place. My question is the gearbox oil. Normally this resides in, well - the gearbox! Looking at the angle of the motor, the oil looks like it will submerge the balancer shaft.

I would imagine starting the engine might be hard work - especially in winter! The other thought is the casting has troughs, in which the clutch throws oil up The oil travels along and dribbles on the gear cluster. Will the gear cluster get the required lube?

Also the clutch, gets hot, will there be sufficient oil to cool it?

Looking on the forum, most folk keep the kr1(s) engine in the kr1(s) frame. Seems to work well that way. But swop the front end with ZXR400 RGV or what ever. The backend gets similar treatment. On top of what you have is, sorting the airbox, making it run properly, sorting the exhausts so you dont burn your err. . . . bottom etc etc

Look at
viewtopic.php?t=6022

My guessing original parts on The Flutes machine is: engine, frame, airbox and wiring system. The rest he has to make to fit, and a smashing job too.

My old Dad, bless him, used the old saying "If it looks right, it is right" Yours dont look right - sorry.

Love the pedestrian scoop on those cars!