here is my project

Show us that box of bits in your shed!
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tescr500
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Post by tescr500 »

cheers boggy
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KRXR
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bling

Post by KRXR »

hey dude thats a top effort. where did u find the rear mud guard?
heavy modification
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tescr500
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Post by tescr500 »

SP_BOTT wrote:Very inspirational :) any tips on the spraying, did you spray green over black, or just masked up and put the colour on top of the primer (if you see what I mean)

Have you got a mask etc for the 2pak.

I will have a go at spraying myself, as I've got too many bikes to either get them done professionally, or find NOS parts :)
Hi all here it goes then i apologise in advance as i tend to go on a bit but hey ho thats me.

first of all prep up original body work ie repairs ant filling to do then i rubbed it down with 1200 grit wet and dry for a smooth finish ready for primer, make sure you get some panel wipe,white spirit or tach cloth to clean before spraying, what i did was wash off with hot soapy water then let dry, then panel wiped tach cloth to remove rubbing dust etc etc,n this will leave a nice clean surface for spraying, mix primer 4 parts paint 1 part hardener and 10% thinners but thinners is personal preference really i made mine slightly thicker just using a splash of thinners, it doesn't run so easily, i then sprayed 3 goodish coats of hi build grey primer,


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370482687788


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then i let dry for a week to dry and cure, i then rubbed it down with 1200 then 2000 wet and dry to get a really smooth and flat surface for painting, if you get any imperfections ie holes dent dips in the primer if you get my meaning get some of this called stopper, its like a very fine filler and rubs down really well to cover up any holes as desribed

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0894046042

once all preped and washed your be ready for the fun part masking up, but to begin with i started with the front mud gaurd as it was only going to be 1 colour for a bit of practice as i have never sprayed 2pk before, i mixed paint 2 parts paint 1 part hardener and a dash of thinners

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270349321353
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270318160323
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390080276972
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Jet-Hvlp ... 45f7b810e8

i then sprayed 5 light coats of black, make sure you can see the paint going on as a lot of light is important, when you see paint going on you'll be looking for just to make it look wet then that'll leave you with a gloss finish, don't worrie to much if its not after the first couple of coats as 2 pk is very good and you can build it up to leave a good finish, don't worrie about runs as you can rub them out ok but preferably don't get any just makes more work but part and parcel i say, i was leaving about 20 to 30 mins inbetween coats, once finished leave to dry 48 hrs before any work is taken out on paint work as i will explain, i'll start with any runs, to rub a run down youll basically be rubbing the drip and the trail it has left behing it, and i mean thats all your be rubbing otherwise you will rub through the paint around it and that is a pain to sort, get a small block of wood wrap the sand paper around it and use the edges and corners to sand the run, just like colouring in a picture thats the best i can describe it, i used a p320 grit paper but be very careful as its harsh but good for taking down runs but will leave deeper sratches, when the run is just about gone go to 1200 grit w&d then start with where the run is to get it flat with the surrounding paint then go all over panel the 2000 grit to flat paint to a very smooth surface, there is finer stuff 2500 and 3000 which you could try as it might make the last stage easier but i didn't, now your at the polishing stage but leave panel 24hrs before starting as you have just rubbed the paint back to a softer coat if you get my meaning, but don't leave to long as it gets harder than a coffin nail 2pk paint and its bloody harder to polish up to a shine but its still do able, i first used original t cut, it tells you not to use on fresh paint but i did and it was ok, give a good firm rub with t cut the wipe of with microfibre cloth as the takes any residue of well, after this i used fareclar g3 compound polish and rubbed like mad pressing evenly and firmly also using g3 proffessional applicator waffle pads, then rub of using micro fibre cloth and now you should be seeing some results, you may have to do a few laps of this process but just watch the laps come into there own, catch my drift, you should acheive a very good shine by this point and it is bloody hard work as i didn't have an electric buffer, might be good advice but i never tried it just plain ole elbow grease, as your polishing especially where the runs were you might have to go over this area only with the wet and dry again fin grit to get out the deeper scrathes but they will come out ok bit of hard work and you'll achieve this, then i used meguiars deep crystal polish using applicator waffle and a good wax to come up with a really good finish hope that explains a bit about spaying and polishing, right back to masking, i then proceeded with the belly pan but i used normal white masking tape and got away with it on this occasion but when i got to the side panels it went petetong,you get alot of bleed through so i then went on the hunt for some fine line tape and found this its just brilliant

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acrylic-Fine- ... 335d47a649

it comes in 3 sizes 3,6 and 12mm thickness i used 3 and 12, what you do is get your desired line you want and stick this tape on then mask all other areas you do not want to spray, i used normall masking tape and A4 paper to cover, then tape all over the paper with normal masking tape, but try to keep normal masking tape not to close to edge of blue line where possible, i found you couldn't always do this but you can always leave a part visible blue line, try not to stick normal masking tape on other paint ie primer or other colour as its crap to get offf thats why i used paper, just makes it easier to get all masking and covering off but you will have to stick it to paint at some points just keep it to a minimum, once all covered remember though to wipe clean with panel wipe to remove crap dust but don't be alarmed when spraying if you can see bits of dust dirt as i got on every panel whilst spraying, every effort i used to make sure it was clean but still got it, don't ever try to remove dirt whilst spraying no matter how tempting, do it later when dry it'll be fine, i have three dogs imagine the trouble i had with dog hair but it all come good, if spraying 2 colours always strip and clean gun as you will get some bolw through of paint thats been lying in gun even though you blow through with thinners, paying attention which way round things are, when stripping gun remove the adjusters first ie just the needle you need to remove on this gun i used as above, un screw take spring out pull the needle out the proceed to the sray nozzle unsrew then the .08 jet then the nylon washer pay special attention to which way round it goes the groove in it is deeper on one side then clean gun, when putting back together do in reverse order last off first on thats that said, where was i, now spray on your desired colour mine being black in this case, 2 to 1 ratio then thinners then 5 thin coats of black, oh and the first coat which i forgot to mention just do a really light coat gives a good key and less likely to get runs, then let dry for 24hrs, then you can peal tape of but just be careful tearing off tape(UPDATE peel the tape off as soon as its tacky more or less straight away but be care not to touch fresh paint bit tricky). I had my panels in a warm place as to makes a little easier pulling tape of, i took off all masking and tried to leave the fine line tape till last, when pealing off tape you will get good lines and you will get areas where you have a flakey bit but where the actual line is will still be there

UPDATE

(UPDATE peel the tape off as soon as its tacky more or less straight away but be care not to touch fresh paint bit tricky)


Image

as you can see in the photo above the indicator an even line that the flaket bit of paint but to remome this sand the line only with the p320 paper and block of wood using the 90 degree edge but be very careful as you'll rub surrounding paint away, you should be left with a tidy but proud line, then sand line with 1200 grit using your finger as apposed to the block of wood gently sand linetill you get a dull smooth line i'll try to show in a photo but it will have both colours on photo pretend the green is not there,

Image

once you achieve this oh also flat any runs you'll get used to it with practice your ready for masking up for next colour, easier this time as you have a general line to follow, when masking i left a very very small (size of a hair just to give you an idea of line but not literally if you get my meaning) visible black line just to get a slight over lap, then mask the rest as before, then dry for 24 then remove tape, basically same proceedure sand wet and dry then fine wet and dry till you end up with a nice flat suface, when sanding the 2 colours you will see the line getting really straight and smooth as you wet and dry back, on mine you can feel where the 2 colours meet but to look at its fine, once again as you practice it'll come to you, even try on an old piece of plastic rubbing it down smooth prime it paint it have a go some photo's below hope i've bord you to tears but got some good information hope it helps cheers wayne.

be patient, light coats, and if you do rub through the paint to primer get any halfords touch up pen and use the metal nib to scratch a hole then touch up with paint then same proceedures, you need to dig a hole to lower suface otherwise when snading the touch up you'll just sand the touch up back off.

TOP TIP

don't mix to much paint at a time as you'll waist it once mixed it doesn't last long, 200ml paint 100ml hardener splash of thinners, before spraying adjust the volume of paint coming out on a test piece to make sure your not hosing it on and use a gentle pressure and fan setting on gun but experiment first to get how your happy to spray with its personal preference again any question please ask.


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Last edited by tescr500 on Mon Oct 14, 2013 7:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
No Matter How Messy Things Get You Can Always Clean Them Up.
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TIME IS PRECIOUS WASTE IT WISELY
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tescr500
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Re: bling

Post by tescr500 »

KRXR wrote:hey dude thats a top effort. where did u find the rear mud guard?
viewtopic.php?t=5128&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45

its on this page cheers wayne.
No Matter How Messy Things Get You Can Always Clean Them Up.
MY MAMMA TOLD ME, IF YOU AIN'T GOT ANY PROBLEMS DON'T MAKE ONE.
TIME IS PRECIOUS WASTE IT WISELY
Luders
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Post by Luders »

nice painting tutorial, some very useful tips and techniques there.
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tescr500
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Post by tescr500 »

cheers Luders just hope it helps cheers wayne.
No Matter How Messy Things Get You Can Always Clean Them Up.
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TIME IS PRECIOUS WASTE IT WISELY
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Post by pablo »

Brilliant effort Wayne =D> and I'm struggling to think of a better documented one too.
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Post by garye345 »

Well done that man =D> .
I did my first 2 pack on a frame,but i was ne half has thourough has you.
I used to be so care less,as if i could'nt careless.
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Post by SP_BOTT »

Thanks for going to the effort of writing that up, it's little bits like the front fairing graphics around the headlight, that sets this apart from others that just join up the two halves or make them both into points (if you know the bit I mean?)

I think I will buy a new spraygun when I start (definately going to give this a go myself now) have you any recommendations, or shall I just get whats recommended in my local paint suppliers, ie gravity fed, HVLP? think he said around £40 when I enquired.

Thanks again, keep the pics coming.
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tescr500
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Post by tescr500 »

Cheers Gary.


Hi SP this is the gun i used

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Jet-Hvlp ... 45f7b810e8
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Post by garye345 »

Thats the same has my gun that is,except mine is bigger and it,s got a 1.4mm nozzle.The one i used to spray my frame with though,was my mate's all singing and dancing expensive has....
Question is,what differance does a 0.8,1.4,1.8 etc nozzle make :? .
I used to be so care less,as if i could'nt careless.
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tescr500
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Post by tescr500 »

Hi Gary in i don't know to be honest, but bigger nozzle more paint i can only imagine, probably a bigger fan of spray for larger projects just a guess i'll do a bit of research cheers wayne
No Matter How Messy Things Get You Can Always Clean Them Up.
MY MAMMA TOLD ME, IF YOU AIN'T GOT ANY PROBLEMS DON'T MAKE ONE.
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500bernie
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Post by 500bernie »

Hi Wayne,

Fantastic job =D>

I wish I was able to spray :mrgreen:
(I recognise my own limitations :( )

Keep the photos coming =D>

Cheers
Bernie :D
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tescr500
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Post by tescr500 »

cheers Bernie, was purely an experiment to start with but when the mudgaurd and belly pan came out so well i just cracked on and very pleased with the results cheers wayne.
No Matter How Messy Things Get You Can Always Clean Them Up.
MY MAMMA TOLD ME, IF YOU AIN'T GOT ANY PROBLEMS DON'T MAKE ONE.
TIME IS PRECIOUS WASTE IT WISELY
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tescr500
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Post by tescr500 »

garye345 wrote:Thats the same has my gun that is,except mine is bigger and it,s got a 1.4mm nozzle.The one i used to spray my frame with though,was my mate's all singing and dancing expensive has....
Question is,what differance does a 0.8,1.4,1.8 etc nozzle make :? .
Hi Gary check this web link gives you some advice about nozzles

http://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/Article ... _tips.aspx
No Matter How Messy Things Get You Can Always Clean Them Up.
MY MAMMA TOLD ME, IF YOU AIN'T GOT ANY PROBLEMS DON'T MAKE ONE.
TIME IS PRECIOUS WASTE IT WISELY
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