Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
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Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
Hi chaps, after reading the threads about the standard reg/rec frying the tacho and cdi, ive ordered an Electex world unit for peace of mind as my bike still has the original fitted, their website says dont use with Lithium ion batteries, but, not being an electrics wizard,is there any thing else i should know before fitting it , or is it just whack it on and off i go? i Have a zeel fitted .
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
Other than carefully routing and insulating the cables so that they don't rub on the flywheel, make sure you crimp the pins properly using the correct tool for non-insulated crimps. The tool is not expensive and you'll maybe use it more than you think.
This is the first one I had and it still gets used: -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Genuine- ... 890.l49292
This is the first one I had and it still gets used: -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Genuine- ... 890.l49292
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Re: Electrex world regulator/ rectifier
Thanks for the reply Coose,are we talking about the same thing, ive ordered a regulator/rectifier, are you talking about the stator they do? The reg/rec is under the tank at the front right? funnily enough its just turned up ,its marked RR26, although the receipt doesnt list kr1s, im sure it did when i ordered it, i need to double check, dont want to fry something.
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
Yes, sorry, I was referring to the stator. I need to put my specs on! ![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
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Re: Electrex world regulator/ rectifier
No probs mate!, nice to talk to someone on here! ( tumble weed rolls through) i double checked,they said its the right one for the bike, the jackplug on the unit and the loom have slightly different colours meeting, all 3 on the bottom, yellow to yellow,...top 3 red to white,... brown to brown,... black, to black and yellow striped? Im sure this is right, but just wanted to check it sounds right before i fire it up.Also the unit is twice the size of the original, i had to fit some 5mm spacers underneath to lift it slightly to get the bolts to line up and the unit to mount right. Does all this sound correct? Numbers on unit RR26 20125R3U or V, being new to the bike, just want to double check before melting my loom and zeeltronic! ![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
Ha ha, yes, unfortunately I know what you mean...
Electric World parts are generally pretty good so I would expect it to be right. I haven't fitted one of their RRs, but looking on their website they don't give a lot of info in regard to the red and brown cores. Knowing Electrex I would say that the red would definitely be correct going to the white as that is the permanent feed to the battery, with the brown being the voltage monitoring core. The yellows (AC from stator) and black (ground) will be correct.
I assume it comes with the plug already fitted?
Electric World parts are generally pretty good so I would expect it to be right. I haven't fitted one of their RRs, but looking on their website they don't give a lot of info in regard to the red and brown cores. Knowing Electrex I would say that the red would definitely be correct going to the white as that is the permanent feed to the battery, with the brown being the voltage monitoring core. The yellows (AC from stator) and black (ground) will be correct.
I assume it comes with the plug already fitted?
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Re: Electrex world regulator/ rectifier
yeah im sure its fine but good to hear the logic behind the wire colours, its twice the size of the original, as i say it overlapped the angled front of the mounting plate, so had to fit a spacer to get it to fit ok, the old one looked like it had been dug up on time team, so peace of mind now, good stuff, i think i recognise you from the TZR forum dont i ?
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
Sorry yes plug already fitted.
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
Got a replacement regulator / rectifier for my Kr-1 about three years ago because the original one boiled the battery (it had been on the bike about 28 years!) bought it from an online shop called bitz for bikes, it's made by a Japanese company called Tour Max (serial number 716325) it was an exact swop, being the same size and shape, just plugged it in and things have been fine ever since, just looked on their website and they are still avaliable.
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
Hi pookie, ah right tour max do them do they , i used tourmax carb bits for my TZR, they were really good quality and fitted and worked perfectly, so i expect their other parts would be of same quality.
It did freak me out a bit when i saw the size of the electrex world part, but it was recommended on here , nevertheless, i rang electrex world and gave them the part no. RR26 and they confirmed it was the right part.
It did freak me out a bit when i saw the size of the electrex world part, but it was recommended on here , nevertheless, i rang electrex world and gave them the part no. RR26 and they confirmed it was the right part.
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
The main bonus with the Electrex R/R is that it's a MOSFET type as opposed to the Kawasaki or Tourmax "shunt" type.
Without going into why (I could bore you stupid and will if you want me to?) a MOSFET R/R runs significantly cooler than a shunt type, therefore it should not cook itself.
I would go MOSFET every time.![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
Without going into why (I could bore you stupid and will if you want me to?) a MOSFET R/R runs significantly cooler than a shunt type, therefore it should not cook itself.
I would go MOSFET every time.
![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
What is the difference , between mosfet and shunt type coose, apart from the temp benefit? Glad i discovered this mod before any problems occured ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
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Re: Electrex world reulator/ rectifier
Forget the rectifier for the moment as it's a group of diodes that converts the AC voltage from your generator (stator) to DC voltage to supply your battery and thus the bike's electrical system.
Very basically, if you imagine a voltage regulator as being two switches in series between your generator and battery, where each switch is normally closed.
Switch 1 will open when the voltage from the generator is less than say, 12v, and Switch 2 will open when the voltage from the generator is greater than say, 13.9v. The path from the generator to the battery is therefore made through the R/R between these voltages, where this will then maintain the voltage in the battery, where the bike's electrical system will run solely on the battery when the generator output voltage is less than 12v and greater than 13.9v and the generator voltage is dumped to ground.
Now, old skool regulators used to be simply two relays with contacts wired in series, and you would set up the relay coil switching voltages by adjusting a screw on each relay. Nowadays the switching is done via transistors, where the two main types are shunt and MOSFET. A shunt switches much slower than a MOSFET, so if you imagine Dr Frankenstein on a stormy night throwing a big knife switch to bring his monster to life, that's a shunt transistor in comparison to a MOSFET!
Lots of arcing = lots of heat = a R/R that slowly cooks itself!
Again, this is a very basic description and may be slightly embellished, but hopefully it gives you an idea of the difference.
Very basically, if you imagine a voltage regulator as being two switches in series between your generator and battery, where each switch is normally closed.
Switch 1 will open when the voltage from the generator is less than say, 12v, and Switch 2 will open when the voltage from the generator is greater than say, 13.9v. The path from the generator to the battery is therefore made through the R/R between these voltages, where this will then maintain the voltage in the battery, where the bike's electrical system will run solely on the battery when the generator output voltage is less than 12v and greater than 13.9v and the generator voltage is dumped to ground.
Now, old skool regulators used to be simply two relays with contacts wired in series, and you would set up the relay coil switching voltages by adjusting a screw on each relay. Nowadays the switching is done via transistors, where the two main types are shunt and MOSFET. A shunt switches much slower than a MOSFET, so if you imagine Dr Frankenstein on a stormy night throwing a big knife switch to bring his monster to life, that's a shunt transistor in comparison to a MOSFET!
Lots of arcing = lots of heat = a R/R that slowly cooks itself!
Again, this is a very basic description and may be slightly embellished, but hopefully it gives you an idea of the difference.
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Re: Electrex world regulator/ rectifier
Great stuff, thanks for taking the time to explain, i never really fully understood what they did ,but that spells it out nicely, the old one did looklike something from Dr Frakensteins lab .I know they dont all cook themselves but why wait to find out if its going to!