BDK or PJME?

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P1KL3
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BDK or PJME?

Post by P1KL3 » Wed Mar 06, 2019 4:07 am

Hey all,
I have a couple cranks to rebuild... The seals spin easily on the shaft, The bearings are slightly notchy and there is the slightest play in the big end. One has unknown mileage and the other indicates 46000k on the clock.

I need to order parts, centre pin, rods, bearings and seals. Sadly no-one here in AUS does the centre pin. Before finding this marvelous site I stumbled across BDK and PJME and they seem to have all parts required to rebuild. I can have the cranks done here (Greg ball engineering) in Melbourne.

I have come across a few threads that indicate these guys have that right stuff but was hoping to find out a little more as to which is best. As it's a lot of cash to send over the pond...

Also does anyone know the file size on pic attachments? Photo bucket app won't let me link to a forum apparently

Any info on all this will be greatly appreciated.
Kind regards.
Dylan.
09 zx10r since new +100000k on clock
93 zxr250c rebuilt for the lady
2x 88 kr1b resto (Why I'm here)
Hoonda rebel (couldn't sell my first bike)

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scooble
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Re: BDK or PJME?

Post by scooble » Wed Mar 06, 2019 8:42 pm

I've used BDK a few times to build cranks. They know their stuff and are quite helpful.

fred
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Re: BDK or PJME?

Post by fred » Wed Mar 06, 2019 10:58 pm

i thought BDK actually had the new centers made to their spec, so i dont know who supplies pjme with their centre pins , i had a good chat with James Walker at bdk about the surface finish needed on the centers, too smooth they cant hold oil and lubricate ,too coarse and they wear the lip on the seal ,

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James P
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Re: BDK or PJME?

Post by James P » Sun Mar 10, 2019 10:49 am

Dylan,

I bought a couple of the BDK remade centre shafts and Greg B did all the rebuild work for me locally. No problems were mentioned relating to the assembly work and one of the crankshafts has now been running for about 2000km so far (the other is a spare on the shelf).

You may like to ask Greg to dismantle the crankshafts first, just so you can decide exactly which new parts to order. I had to have four KR-1 crankshafts dismantled just to get enough good inner webs for two crankshafts. All of the big ends felt smooth, but pitting was revealed on some of the big-end pins after dismantling. BDK also sells remade inner webs which (if I remember correctly) were made to the order of Grampian/Mitaka a few years ago.

If you need any suggestions for sourcing main ball bearings, big-end bearings, conrods etc., let me know!

Regards,
James

P1KL3
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Re: BDK or PJME?

Post by P1KL3 » Mon Mar 11, 2019 5:27 am

Hey james,
Thanks for the reply. Kinda the info I was seeking. Had a chat with Ben at GBE and he basically said the same with dismantling and seeing what was required. Apparently they can Machine the big end out but there's not really enough meat in the web for it to be a long-term fix. As I have two cranks I'd like to rebuild to a high standard whilst not blowing the budget (If thats possible)

So if you have any suggestions as to main/b.e. bearings, seals, I believe the kx125 93-02 con rods match up but our supplier thru work is waiting on stock. If you know of any kicking around...

Kind regards, dylan.
09 zx10r since new +100000k on clock
93 zxr250c rebuilt for the lady
2x 88 kr1b resto (Why I'm here)
Hoonda rebel (couldn't sell my first bike)

P1KL3
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Re: BDK or PJME?

Post by P1KL3 » Mon Mar 11, 2019 5:28 am

James,
Do you remember roughly how long BDK took to arrive?
Dylan.
09 zx10r since new +100000k on clock
93 zxr250c rebuilt for the lady
2x 88 kr1b resto (Why I'm here)
Hoonda rebel (couldn't sell my first bike)

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KR1 Man
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Re: BDK or PJME?

Post by KR1 Man » Sat Mar 16, 2019 10:25 pm

KR1 Man calling. My advice is this: From my experience, 2 crank rebuilds plus re-plates plus excellent customer service, and good advice at the end of a phone line, I wouldn't want to go anywhere else. These guys REALLY know what they are talking about, their work is second to none and KR1 Man really would not go anywhere else other than BDK. If BDK read this posting, I am simply telling it how it is for me and my KR. Best regards, KR1 Man.
KR1 Sleeping Beauty/Partner.Polished to perfection.
RD350 LC YPVS. Also grandson Declan's KR1 with ZXR black/purple paintjob/ KR1-s upgrades and max polishing

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James P
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Re: BDK or PJME?

Post by James P » Sun Mar 17, 2019 5:44 am

P1KL3 wrote:
Mon Mar 11, 2019 5:28 am
James,
Do you remember roughly how long BDK took to arrive?
Dylan.
No I don't remember - sorry. However, it does not stick in my mind that delivery took any longer than it should. I suppose if you ask the question, you may get a better idea (i.e. make sure the parts are actually in stock and can be sent immediately).

Here is some info on the parts I used or have since discovered:

Conrods - There are a few different KX125s which used conrods with identical measurements to the standard KR-1 conrod. I used 13032-1189 (which superseded 13032-1194). The dimensions are the same as the KR-1 conrod, but the '1189' conrod weighs about 25g more. Also, I found that when fitting the crankshaft into the engine casing, the big end of the conrod touched the inner surface of the crank case. The interference was not enough to stop the crankshaft from rotating - I could only just feel/hear the conrod touching. This was soon sorted by about 10 minutes' work with a Dremel Multitool with sanding band attachment - the amount of material to be removed was quite small. I daresay I could have removed a small amount of material from the outer surface of the conrod big end instead, but it was a bit late with the crankshaft already assembled!
There are also 'Long' brand aftermarket conrods which I have found to be quite good (but haven't tried in a KR-1) - these are made in Japan and sometimes appear in Mitaka and Pro-X boxes. However, the bearings supplied with these conrods are sometimes inferior (they may have a lesser number of rollers). Whatever conrod you use, check the thickness of material at the big end eye and compare with a standard KR-1 conrod to see if any removal of material will be required.

Big end bearings - These are a very common size (22-29-17) and there is a choice of different types. I used 15-roller bearings with PEEK-coated flat cages which I got from The Two-Stroke Shop (no longer in business, I think) - these bearings had been made especially for the shop and were promoted as a good quality bearing at a decent price (no complaints from me so far!) - mainly intended for use in high-performance Yamaha RZ motors I believe.
Alternatives I know about are Pro-X bearing 22.222917F and Yamaha 93310-523D2, which are both flat-cage bearings with 16 rollers. There are other alternatives, but try to buy known brand bearings with as many rollers as possible.

Small-end bearings - These are also a common size (16-21-20) and there is a lot of choice (OEM from all of the 'Big 4', Wiseco, Pro-X, INA etc.). Again, try to buy a known brand with no less rollers than original and you should be fine.

Big-end shims - These are 22-37-1.0 size and are a fairly common size for performance two-stroke engines. One example is Yamaha 90209-22248, but I'm pretty sure the same size is available OEM from all of the 'Big 4', as well as Wiseco, Pro-X etc.

Left-hand and inner main ball bearings (3 required) - These are a fairly common type (83A916C - size 25-55-15 with pin), used in a number of different bikes. I found some genuine Koyo bearings at Marksman Industrial for a good price and it looks like they are still available:
https://shop.marksman-ind.com/83a916csh ... 0025-p.asp
Otherwise you can buy Yamaha 93306-20577 or Pro-X 23.83A916C, which are the same.

Right-hand main ball bearing (1 required) - This (Type 83406) is based on the very common 6305 bearing (size 25-62-17), but has a locating groove and a pin. I had a little difficulty finding these when I built my KR-1 a few years ago, so I bought a 6305NR (which has a groove, but no pin) and had a pin inserted.
I had thought this bearing was the same as Yamaha 93306-30508. That part number has supposedly been superseded by 93306-30549, which is NOT the correct bearing (it is the same size, but has a 'dimple' instead of a pin, which is not in the correct place).
I have since discovered that Suzuki 09262-25097 (RGV crankshaft bearing) is the correct type with groove and pin. There is also Pro-X 23.83406 as another alternative.

Oil seals - These can be bought as a set from BDK, PJME etc. or individually from Pro-X suppliers. The left-hand seal presently available is a little different in that it hasn't got the raised locating ridge of the original seal (92049-1302). Basic dimensions are as follows:
Left-hand - 25-50-10
Middle left & right - 25-55-10
Right-hand - 25-62-8


Let us know how you get on, or if you need more info.


Regards,
James

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Re: BDK or PJME?

Post by fred » Sun Mar 17, 2019 5:58 am

Good info

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