R6 Shock ?

rad · Post by **rad** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:40 am

Got an R6 shock off flea bay for my 89 KR1 S. Would you recommend putting this straight on with the 18" rear wheel or wait until I've got hold of a 17" RGV one. First time out will be the PB track day at Cadwell, don't want to waste my money by it being too unstable to ride. But on the other hand the only time I rode it was on a hill climb and it was decking out the expansion chambers, think there nikon pipes, don't want to risk wearing an hole in them or getting chucked off either when they touch down. Any sugestions?
Thanks

ScottaKR · Post by **ScottaKR** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:28 pm

Opinions vary on this (havn't fitted mine yet), but I think it mainly comes down to personal preference. If the bike already feels a bit flighty in the front then you may want to wait till youve fitted the 17" rear (or got some shorter linkages). On the other hand, if you think it's a little slow in the change of direction for your likeing, you might want to give it a go.

Good luck mate.

rad · Post by **rad** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:41 pm

It turns quick enough ( from what I remember, rode it about 3 years ago ) more worried about ground clearance. Think the steering damper is shot aswell!

KwakOn · Post by **KwakOn** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:23 pm

I think someone worked out that the R6 shock and 17" wheel was still 8mm higher than standard 18" setup.

It sounds unusual to me to have expansions deck out, I found the pegs went first with standard setup, maybe tuck them in further. (The standard shock doesnt take much abuse so could be knackered.)

I have the same - R6 shock waiting till I get the 17" wheel sorted.

mgtkr1 · Post by **mgtkr1** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:14 pm

the r6 shock with a 17' wheel is about right, on the road its fine. a 18' with a r6 shock is too much on the road but on a track may be ok. the kr is a barge in std form compared too other recent 250's. i think its the underdamped, oversprung forks that cause the front to flap more than aggresive head angle. to put it into perspective of how much you can alter the steering geomatry and still get away without tankslappers. i had a r6 rear/17' wheel/shorter tie rods -8mm. i made my own, even shorter than bdk ones. norm is -6mm i think? on this set up it felt a bit nervous when testing on the road but on a track i think it would be far mor stable for lack of bad bumps compared to road. the r6 shock is not perfect but is way better than a knackered std one and for the money you get all the fancy knobs/dials. second best thing to a bespoke ohlins/WP/proflex etc. ideally i think a stiffer spring would benefit the r6 shock route but there not expensive. it is fine as is tbh.

the kid · Post by **the kid** » Tue Mar 18, 2008 8:53 pm

I have an R6 shock in my trackie with standard links and 18 wheel and it feels great on the track .
At slow speed , pit lane etc , feels a bit "tippy" but quite happy at track speeds and doesn't seem to want to shake its head over slight rises .

rad · Post by **rad** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:00 pm

It's got some after market home made rear sets so the pegs are clear, the zorsts are nikon I think and have apparently been re welded to get them out of the way. So think my shock my well just be knackered. The shock hasn't turned up yet so starting to panic a little! Hopefully first outing will be cadwell so see you in the gravel trap maybes.