Has anyone got any experience with removing studs from the crank cases ?
I have some slightly bent ones fitted and want to renew them.
I have soaked the studs in penetrating oil and tried locking two nuts on the studs but they are in too tight.
I do have a good stud extractor but this damages the threads on removal and if still too tight then definitely a cut off and drill out job.
i am a little reluctant to put too much force on the studs as worried that the case will crack rather than the stud shearing.
Has any one tried removing these studs with success and not damaging cases. my mate recently sheared off part of his fireblade engine casing when removing a tight stud.
Safest way would be cut off the studs flush and drill them out carefully then clean out with a tap or if thread is damaged then helicoil to M8.
would really like to change these bent studs for new ones
COMMENTS PLEASE
Studs for Barrels
- Tofty
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You dont seem to have mentioned heat, thats what ive found to be the most effective way of extracting solid studs and broken bolts/screws.
One problem is obviously cracking the aluminium due to localised expansion but that can be avoided with slow heating.
Something that occured last time i had this problem was all the wd40/thread loosener/rust desolver solutions i had covered the thread in bust into flames so make sure there isnt a trail of it leading to something important....and/or highly inflammable. Good fun though and it may have helped oil penatration but i doubt it.
What is a stud extractor? The last stud i extracted i had to: shorten it, drill a hole through it, pin it with a nail, cut slots through an old socket to grip the nail AND heat the hell out of it. A stud extractor sounds like a better alternative really.
One problem is obviously cracking the aluminium due to localised expansion but that can be avoided with slow heating.
Something that occured last time i had this problem was all the wd40/thread loosener/rust desolver solutions i had covered the thread in bust into flames so make sure there isnt a trail of it leading to something important....and/or highly inflammable. Good fun though and it may have helped oil penatration but i doubt it.
What is a stud extractor? The last stud i extracted i had to: shorten it, drill a hole through it, pin it with a nail, cut slots through an old socket to grip the nail AND heat the hell out of it. A stud extractor sounds like a better alternative really.
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- SHimmer45
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- nate
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Just a thought, but when I help a friend out in his garage, he uses this thing called 'freeze off'...
Kinda the same theory as Heat, but obviously the opposite... you can buy it down here from places like Mill Auto's (dont know if there a national company)...
I was a little bit sceptical, but it works a treat....
Good luck..
Nate
Kinda the same theory as Heat, but obviously the opposite... you can buy it down here from places like Mill Auto's (dont know if there a national company)...
I was a little bit sceptical, but it works a treat....
Good luck..
Nate
- mr_bungholeo
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before you mangle the tread try putting two nuts on then tighten them against each other then undo with the lower nut...oh n heat around the stud on the ally(this will expand as it heats up quicker than steel...)but only for a minute...cos u don't want both metals expanded only the ally...should come undone without the heat though....
oh n give em a tap on the top to shock the thread....but not so hard you bend em more eh...
oh n give em a tap on the top to shock the thread....but not so hard you bend em more eh...
bring a ding ding i'm a throttle happy chappy...
you cant beat a bit of blue haze...
danny harris.....R.I.P
gone but totally forgotten...
you cant beat a bit of blue haze...
danny harris.....R.I.P
gone but totally forgotten...
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wd40 is utter shite for anything more than a sticky cable! try penol, its an absolute miracle in the way it works, it may take patience but usually acts very fast, i had a bolloxed m6 screw in the frame(battery earth) and tried mole grips, shock therapy, you name it but were having none of it! squirted a tad of penol on the offending area, left it while i smerked me tab/drank brew and it came out using an adjustable! the head of the screw was to badly chewed for a conventinol spanner) obviously gonna take longer than 5 mins with a stud but ity should work along with shock/heat/patience, be carefull how you apply heat though as it can damage the alloy aswell as catch alight due to penol been fairly flammable. i would apply penol after heating the affected area. not sure were its sold but my dad gets it from work(chorus/steel works) its in a blue/white tin.
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Well , if you watch enough porno films its when the heavys come in and beat up the bloke with the large schlong who has been slamming a silicone inpregnated blonde , hence the stud gets extracted .Tofty wrote:
What is a stud extractor?
could be a left hand threaded tapered device that will screw into a hole drilled into a recalcetrant ? bolt etc . There are also other devices that slip over a stud and have a half moon sort of thing that will grip the stud when turned left hand . HTH
Heat would be good !
- mr_bungholeo
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