waterpump seal
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- Heavy Smoker
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:37 pm
waterpump seal
Impellers off ,,the diaphram seal with spring pulled off,but left a thin metal bucket thing should this have stayed with the springtime seal? What next ? does the bearing pull out from behind or do I mangled the thin metal bucket out to press the bearing out from the front,? Cheers
- James P
- Oil Injector
- Posts: 582
- Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2013 10:47 am
- Location: Sydney, Australia
Re: waterpump seal
Yes, the diaphragm should have stayed with the "thin metal bucket thing". I'm not sure whether it is possible to successfully rejoin the two parts - you may be better off with a new mechanical seal assembly.
To remove the remaining parts: Heat the casing in an oven to 100-150 degrees C for about half an hour - the bearing should just fall out (if it doesn't, lightly hit the casing on a lump of wood to free it). With the outside of the casing adequately supported in a vice or press (take care to protect the pump housing gasket face), you should then be able to use the correct size large socket to carefully press out the oil seal and "thin metal bucket thing" from the inside.
When reassembling, make sure to leave the coolant drain passage open - don't block it with the oil seal. To do this, fit the bearing first (then allow the casing to cool if you heated it to fit the bearing), then push the oil seal all the way in against the bearing. Lastly, fit the mechanical seal assembly into its seat. I use a short piece of aluminium tube (ID 28.5, OD 31.5) in a vice to gently push the mechanical seal in without damaging it. When assembled, you should be able to check that the drain passage is clear by inserting a piece of wire (diameter 1mm or less) through the passage all the way to the centre of the shaft axis.
Regards,
James
To remove the remaining parts: Heat the casing in an oven to 100-150 degrees C for about half an hour - the bearing should just fall out (if it doesn't, lightly hit the casing on a lump of wood to free it). With the outside of the casing adequately supported in a vice or press (take care to protect the pump housing gasket face), you should then be able to use the correct size large socket to carefully press out the oil seal and "thin metal bucket thing" from the inside.
When reassembling, make sure to leave the coolant drain passage open - don't block it with the oil seal. To do this, fit the bearing first (then allow the casing to cool if you heated it to fit the bearing), then push the oil seal all the way in against the bearing. Lastly, fit the mechanical seal assembly into its seat. I use a short piece of aluminium tube (ID 28.5, OD 31.5) in a vice to gently push the mechanical seal in without damaging it. When assembled, you should be able to check that the drain passage is clear by inserting a piece of wire (diameter 1mm or less) through the passage all the way to the centre of the shaft axis.
Regards,
James
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- Heavy Smoker
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:37 pm
Re: waterpump seal
Thanks that's very thorough. I should be ok now.