KR-1S.co.uk Forum

cheerrs guys im`e on the ale like a viking ,ayy best thing about this is 8 hours is all it takes ,so realy alterations won`t be hard ,will they ,and not one answer about exhaust wrap 4" off i recon ,bcoz they are heavy as,

Flippin fantastic job there Fred. =D> =D> =D>
I'd personally go for the black paint option (and exhaust wrap if that's your thing), but it all comes down to what YOU prefer. I think taking 4"out of the cans might be a bit much (2" would be about as much as I'd trim them if at all), or you could just find some nice looking aftermarket cans or ones from an aprillia or other such bike.

Brilliant job on the pipes Fred, yhey look great, but I agree with the comments about leaving the silencers as they are.

had a bad cold and am asthmatic so aint done much last week was nearly passing out coughing, but on the mend ,,gutted the silencers today,you only need to sand of the weld on the bolt flange then pull out ,get rid of the old packing,burn of the carbon,re wrap and reasemble then reweld ,make sure the 3 inner perf tubes are inline,1 of mine was bent and had started to burn the packing.


all welded ready to fit,Not going to shorten the cans just yet ,(it would be a easy job)callipers blasted ready,new clutch plates n springs to fit ,new battery to boot so should be on with the electrix later this week

Shese a runner ,second kick ,0nly ran for 2 mins just now bcoz of the neighbours, need to look at tickover on left carb and dont know what air screws are set at,think i did em turn and a half out , the pipes sound great ,quite a bit louder than stock real crisp ,so last of electricks to do tommoz , then fibreglassing and undercoat ,ready to send off ,pics to come tommoro
if i remember rightly with pilot airscrew you tighten them, then undo them till it starts 4 stroking then tighten a bit till it stops ?

fred wrote: if i remember rightly with pilot airscrew you tighten them, then undo them till it starts 4 stroking then tighten a bit till it stops ?

that would be a good base-setup if the pilotscrew was at the front of the carb. turning out would then be making it richer.

however, on the PWK's, the pilotscrew only regulates air, so the more you turn it out, the leaner it becomes. you could spent all day turning it out and waiting for it to "4stroke" but it never will

just turn it about 3/4 out from full in

cheers jan it was a old villiers or gt zookie ,3/4 it is then ,ive got to have em off anyway ,its weeping on the float bowl (i always worry bout new batteries and new builds and end up checking shed a few times to be sure alls well

bit more progress ,washed dust off after sorting the weeping float bowl,then guess what the right carb kept flooding ,stripped again,found nothing ,back on and fine,i resisted the screwdriver and tapomiter teqniqe to vibrate it abit,it`s just a little quirk of these anyway


if anyone wants a ssteel 18mm fine nut for the stem ive got one going free ,i just wanted to change the style


to say it cost about 4 or 5 hundred to get this far ,as soon as i get £300 saved i know wher its going ,

got a good tax rebate today i know what ime going to get done after the 22nd now

started repairing the cracks in this lot ,and going to see if bdk is open tommoro and get the crank out and sent off ,theres no point putting it off

chucked it in for a mot last friday thinking ile make prescott ,failed on ,lockstop right (all original but will build up with weld) 2 lower shock lincage bolts want swapping over ,no parking light in front headlight ,no rebound damping in rear shock, anyway stripped motor yesterday and crank is in the post to james ,center bearings slide and it was sucking gearbox oil ,i was just trying to kid myself ,but the plan is while the cranks away the mig ally n rotory files will play ,waiting on a paint code from these guys to get my tank painted.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251040126783? ... 1497.l2649
did a oil change on my original rear shock (read instructions to the letter) so i can take the first attemt off and refit the gooden ,a month or so and well be smileing ,i recon it would of been perfect for prescott with differt cogs

welded up the receses in the inlets and laid a weld arouns the steps on the inside on the left n right of the inlet and the small pocket just infront of this (i think this is where the casting cores come together ,started fettling this evening and checked nothings moved. it did`nt even get hot enough to burn the engine mounts that i forgot to remove good temprature indicator tho ,i dont want to remove too much but wanted to add some ,any recomendations would be greatly recieved

finished of the fettling with the burrs and just need to smooth out the surface ,a big thankyou to mj for sharing his pictures and knowledge

there's a lot more that you can grind away

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ooh ,ive never seen luders link before ,i didnt want to remove much but add it to lower the crankase volume , to get a tad more pressure,i dare`nt weld up round the oil ways ,its a bit close to other things and it would distort ,ile have a look at those sharp edges tho ,