Temple for the tuners?

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:29 pm

The gudgeon pin diameter is 16mm not 17mm as it is quoted there by the way.

Dan

TwoStroke Institute · Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:17 pm

maccas wrote:Mark,

Have you considered the conrod from a 3xv? Its the same rod thats used in the 3yl/4dp/4tw tz so is more than capable of taking the grunt. Its a 110mm centre to centre. The small end eye is the same fitment as the kr, would have to measure a big end eye for you when i go to pick up my crank i'm getting rebuilt.

Dan

The 3XV rod might be a fraction floppy on the KR-1/TZ crankpin Dan

A link to Stucco verde was posted Pt2 p29

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:21 pm

The 3xv conrod should be fine on a TZ crankpin as the conrods are identical. If you look at a TZ conrod it will say 3xv on it:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TZ-250-Yamaha ... 5d38ed13c2

Is the crankpin on a 3xv a different diameter to the kr-1 crank pin then?

Dan

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:30 pm

I will have a look at home for a PDF from Weisco that lists a whole lot of Con Rods for different machines.

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:22 pm

http://www.wisecochina.com/customer-ser ... ation.html

This is the info I have

TwoStroke Institute · Post by **TwoStroke Institute** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 9:23 pm

maccas wrote:The 3xv conrod should be fine on a TZ crankpin as the conrods are identical. If you look at a TZ conrod it will say 3xv on it:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TZ-250-Yamaha ... 5d38ed13c2

Is the crankpin on a 3xv a different diameter to the kr-1 crank pin then?

Dan

If the 3XV rod has a 31mm big end eye and fits on the NS400's 24mm crank pin then...............

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 9:46 pm

The TZ must have a 24mm crankpin then. Does anyone know what the KR runs?

Dan

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:07 pm

Dan

I believe the KR Rod is

106mm long
21mm little end hole
29mm big end hole
17mm thick both ends

KDX 200/220 is the same but 3mm longer

Banshee rods are a possible same hole sizes same width at the bottom 1mm wider at the top but that shouldn't be a problem - choice of 110mm or long-rod options

JanBros · Post by **JanBros** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:37 pm

here you 'll find lot's of info on lot's of parts :
http://www.mitaka.co.uk/catalogue_index.htm

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:52 pm

maccas wrote:Dave meant the auxillary exhaust port Lozza not the c transfer port.

Have you converted a kr cylinder so that the main opens first? Do you havea dyno curve showing the results that you would be willing to share?

My cylinder with that porting arrangement made shit power and no bottom end compared to a stock cylinder.

Plus the curve goes up at a steeper incline due to the taller main port.

Dan

Dan

Was this the motor you tried at Krazy Katt?
Can you tell me what you did (port timing) so we can understand what didn't work.

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:30 pm

Hi Mark,

Yes of course not a problem.

I'll fire my laptop up and find the port map of the cyls and post it here.

2 mins

Dan

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:47 pm

Cheers Dan

Started experimenting with Piston Pin Buttons. This one was an experiment printed on an Ultimaker in PLA. I have been through the discussion on the Pitlane thread and am going to try graphite loaded PTFE. The exotic material is silly money and whilst it may have some better attributes its temperature range is the same.
Buttons only need to last about 10 miles

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:51 pm

Dyno results:

Thats the portmap from the cylinders used.

Stock kr1s pistons were in the bike.
Deck height is 0, piston at TDC is flush with the top of the barrel
Main exhaust is 26.5mm from top of the barrel which equates to 188.4 degrees duration.
Kips ports are 27.4mm from top of barrel which equates to 184.1 degrees duration.
Kips are 8mm high and 17mm wide (arc length).

Head volume was 9cc with the piston at TDC. Squish clearance was 0.75mm at the cylinder wall and 0.98mm closest to the centre of the cylinder. The squish band was quite wide with no radius where is went into the bowl (I have read that is the best way).

Lomas stainless pipes with kevlar cans (with genuine kwak gaskets fitted, i noticed you said you don't fit gaskets,may shorten the tuned length slightly? )

Pwk 35 qas carbs,162 main, 48 pilot, del needles middle clip, number 6 slides

Airbox lid has a few small holes drilled in it (not by me) that i want to replace with an unmodified lid really

F3 powervalves working differently to standard.

Zeeltronic pdci-20v ignition (running less advance than stock)

Crankcases flowed and filled with jb weld as per your word document instructions.

Reed valve stuffers were not fitted at all. (thanks again for sending me a pair)

B9EGV plugs

I think that's it spec wise.

Dan

mj43 · Post by **mj43** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:54 pm

Cheers Dan will have a beer and a think

maccas · Post by **maccas** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:01 pm

Mark,

Those piston pin plugs look good to me! I wonder if I ought to try similar in the 3xv at some point.

Also I must add, my bike was running a stock rad and thermostat. The power fade was really bad. Compare run 12 to 13 in the dyno charts. Loses more than a horsepower in places from one run to the next. This was the main reason we had to run low advance (approx 4 degrees lower than a stock KR1S cdi and tailed off earlier, at the time I didn't know the heads had such a small volume)

I have a bigger rad now so should be a bit better in that respect.

Dan