KR-1S.co.uk Forum

It's strange isn't it... I've raced on many different tyres, I guess it's all a matter of personal choice coupled with what you read/use and have had good experience with. I for example always went well in the wet with bridgestones, yet liked the Dunlops in the dry but didnt in the damp/wet they just felt vauge to me I guess,no real feedback.

Like I say personal experience no real hard and fast rule about this one is better than that one etc.

Kev

good points there KFOR,i guess also that some tyres are more biased (wet/dry) where'as the 364's are designed as a club racing intermediate that CAN be used in ALL conditions.
Ive ran slicks once on the TZ and the grip was amazing,but you need to keep the heat in them and use tyre warmers,plus they put more demand on the suspension so you have a narrower margin for setup,for what i do (trackdays) i know i can roll up with the 364's and whatever the weather i can still ride.
so you cant use slicks then in the class your gonna run this weapon in Ben?

Yeah I can run slicks with the TSGP series, but not in the F250 class.

Okay, back to the fibre glass fuel tank.

Here you can see the two halfs of the mould are back together and I've applied the layer of gel coat.



Continue to fibreglass as previously documented and allow to dry, once dry, carefully cut the mould free of your part.



Clean off the blue release agent and any plasticine along the seam, clean up edges and sand with a fine wet and dry any imperfections.





Hope this is helpful Si, I'll do a weight comparison once fully complete.

Looking great Ben =D> =D> =D>

Pretty much done now
in the end opted for a 2 into 1 to save some weight

brilliant ,what points you mounting tank too ,same as normal hows your welder getting on,theres probably some weight to be gained where the swingarm casting joins the side beams theres casting to help manufacture too late f this ,next one maybe

Love the Dymags

the welding set is knackered and not worth repairing, so he's going to have to buy a new one. No fabrication for a few week's.

I need to pick up my duke next Saturday and go shopping with a mate. Then it's Mallory and mother's day on the Sunday.
The following weekend I am at Rockingham on the Sunday, so not going to have much time for the bike in March.

Will get odds and ends done and bought during the week though.

So I've been looking at the rear brake and looking at how to get rid of the torsion bar to save weight.

The entire design seems dated and over engineered.

First off I was going to modify the caliper hanger, but after looking at the sorry state of my standard rear caliper, I decided to start from scratch and redesign the entire rear braking system.

I found GB Moto make a small light weight caliper for £119 including postage and VAT.



I am going to design a hanger which locates itself in place, with the use of a key way added to the swingarm.

I'll do a complete weight comparision, but am expecting to save over half a kilo with this piece.

More trick bits on their way...

I've had a look at the caliper and done some measurements and come up with this design.

Going to send it off and see about getting one made.

Hi Ben,
Is the 12.5mm x 9mm boss the part which will lock the hanger in place on the swinger?
Bernie

Yeah that's the idea at the moment. Will try it and see if it works, I may have to redesign, but that's what the development phase this year is all about.

my humble opinion : it will work, but it will wear out you part and your swingarm because of the constant banging on each other when hitting the brake.

I'd make some sort of thing on it so I can bolt it tightly onto the swing arm.

with a nice fit it wont move,axle nuts gona be tight anyway,so 0.1mm up 0.1mm down ,if ye can feel that your a better man than me
yan you was spot on with the airscrews mate 3/4