KR-1S.co.uk Forum

Yer i can have a go at it bernie!

I'll keep u posted

Maccas

I had better start saving my pocket money for a Zeeltronic

Thanks
Bernie

yep obviously having an fully programmable unit is the way to go,even if you just like to fiddle with stuff.
I must admit regarding the timing mod,for running on unleaded with the stock heads and compression ratio the original position seemed best to me.
I run straight Avgas in my track bike as i already have to get it for the 93TZ250 and 93 onda rs125,with stock heads the bike doesnt seem anymore powerful but parts are lasting alot longer(pistons mainly) and the motor runs cooler,its also less finicky about the weather having an effect on the mixture.
The only thing i had to do was drop the needle 1 clip and the main 1 size for Avgas to get the jetting good.
Running some Terry Shepard Leaded heads and barrels i found running a bit more advance was the way to go on a stop/start circuit like mallory park.
Off topic i know,just start on one thing and it leads to another,LOL.
ATB
Let us know how the ignition system install and test goes.
Dave

Zeeltronic arrived today! Great service from borut!

I bought a map switch so i can change maps while riding too.

I went for the pcdi-10v as i wanted pc programming.



Came loaded with 2 curves, one appears to be very similar to the standard kr1s curve and the other looks to be tweaked slightly with more advance up top for a tweaked motor.

I have mapped the standard kr1, kr1s and the two curves supplied by borut in excel to show them to you all here:



Once i have checked the static advance and generally comissioned the unit i intend to load the kr1 curve into the zeel to see if the bike runs the same as with the standard cdi.

Then i will upload one of the more aggresive curves and hopefully hear those lomas pipes sing!

Should be next week sometime.

Maccas

Hi Maccas,

Dont forget to take plenty of photos [-o<

Cheers,
Bernie

I'm itching to get playing with the bike!

Providing the weather is good this friday i will be doing some work on it.

Dave,

I ended up buying new number 6 slides just for piece of mind really, i know they are bloody expensive but its done now!

I have been reading lots of info on zeeltronics across the various 2 stroke forums and have been playing with ignition curves.

Lozza (TSI on here) had mentioned on the tzr forum that using a TZ250 curve that has been shifted to the left in order to match the peak power characteristics of the bike in question is a good start.

I have fiddled around with a 2000 spec TZ 250 curve and made 2 versions of it, one shifted by 2000 rpm to the left to give peak power advance of 12.8 degrees at 10500 rpm and another shifted to the left by 1750rpm to give 12.8 degrees at 10750.

Both should be a close match to where the lomas pipes make their peak power. Looking at some of MJ's posted dyno results with 35's and lomas pipes the curve peaks just below 10500 rpm, obviously all engines are different and MJ has put substantial work into changing the porting and different pistons used etc.

Gives me a rough idea though.



As you can see the standard KR1S curve isn't too dissimilar from the shifted TZ curves at all. I've changed the very start of the TZ curves before 3000rpm to match a standard KR1S curve by the way.

Will be interesting to compare on the dyno when i get round to it.

Maccas

Looks like youve got a new gadget to play around with,im jealous!
Any idea what model TZ ignition curve it is?
On my 92(with 93 ignition) the power peaks at 11,500(79.5hp) by 12,000 its down to 70,this running the stock timing of 1.5mm BTDC.
Just curious thats all.
cheers
Dave

Hi Dave

I'm not exactly sure which model, all i know is that its from a 2000 model TZ 250.

I should be installing the zeel on friday providing the weather is good!

Maccas

Hi everyone, been busy with my tzr's recently but got a bit of time on the kr the other day.

The other week i noticed that the base gaskets had been pushed out in the transfer tunnels so i whipped the top end off and replaced them.

All looked good, no det marks or damage so went back together again.

Found out why my bellypan wouldn't fit, the fairing side brackets are about half an inch too high.



I will modify them and then its good to go.

Jobs left to do:

Plug chops to sort jetting out
Play with zeel, would like more overrev
Fork seals need doing
Chain guard wants painting
Get it on the dyno

That will do for now, just want to use it now

Maccas

top banana there maccas excellent should have mine done for summer

Well it was a nice day in yorkshire today so I did a bit of testing on the KR1

Found a nice long straight lane near my house to do some plug chops, 2miles long dead straight:





155 main jets

Warmed the bike up on the old plugs got to the lane and put brand new ones in. Started it up and darted straight off, flat out in 4th for 15 seconds and turned it off and clutch in. Roughly 11250rpm when I killed it.
I have backed the advance off after 10.5k which has given me some useable overrev.

Whipped plugs out and rode home with the old plugs back in.

B9ES plugs (will get some iridiums once I have settled on a suitable heat range)

Observations:

Earth terminal covered in a greyish fuel ash that wipes off with your finger, multicoloured spots underneath.
No rounding of terminals so no plug overheating to report.



Cut the insulator out of the shell:





Nice 2mm light brown ring at the base of the insulator, so i would say that the jetting is pretty good.

But it isn't a darkish brown so I might go richer.

I am going to get some 10 plugs and do the same plug chop to see if the brown ring is more prominent as I have a feeling that 9 is just a bit too hot.

But I would appreciate peoples opinion as I am no expert, just interested in 2 stroke tuning as a hobby.

Also went to sherburn on it this aft for a quick ride, bloody left hand cylinder base gasket popped out and I lost my coolant, luckily this happened just as I pulled into squires so no damage was done to me or the bike:



The bit that seals the water passage popped out again, I've got some genuine kawasaki base gaskets on the way so hopefully that will sort it.

I will check that the base of the barrels are flat when I take them off again.

Do people use any sealant on their base gaskets or just plain on their own?

Maccas

Touch of grease has always worked well for me on base gaskets

agree with mikekr1s on this one,
i always rub both sides with grease,
and also . only use genuine base gaskets [like the head gasket] and pattern
ones everywhere else

I always put some silicon sealant on both sides, but only as little as possible.

mostly not for the sealing , but because then the gasket never sticks to the cases/cylindres, and most of the time they are reusable.

Heres a quick pic of the base gasket and where it pushed out:



This time i used genuine base gaskets and just put a tiny blob of grease on each corner just to keep them where i wanted them while fitting.

I think that the threebond I had used on the previous gaskets had helped the gaskets slip out.

Anyway all seems good so far.

Maccas