Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:45 pm
Top job! =D>
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Final KR Based Race Bike Project
Page 8 of 44
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:47 pm
looking good.
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 1:38 pm
Not much of an update this week, I've mainly been working on the fibreglassing for the tank and airbox.
I have started to make a rear hugger though. From what you see in the picture, I will create a mould and then make the finished item out of carbon fibre, so will document those steps for you when I get to that point. It's essentially the same as fibre glassing, except you use a high gloss, clear resin instead of gel coat and you have to be careful not to disturb the weave when applying the fibre fabric.
I have started to make a rear hugger though. From what you see in the picture, I will create a mould and then make the finished item out of carbon fibre, so will document those steps for you when I get to that point. It's essentially the same as fibre glassing, except you use a high gloss, clear resin instead of gel coat and you have to be careful not to disturb the weave when applying the fibre fabric.
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:36 pm
Ben,
Nice rear shock,i had one of those on my Yam TRX 850,it worked very well on the road.
Rich
Nice rear shock,i had one of those on my Yam TRX 850,it worked very well on the road.
Rich
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:41 pm
Top Class as usual Ben =D> =D>
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:19 pm
Love those wheels Bud ! Looking forward to seeing more pictures =D>
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:01 pm
I do love the wheels too, they were on my wish list for agesKFOR wrote:Love those wheels Bud ! Looking forward to seeing more pictures =D>
Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:22 pm
Not very exciting, but my filler neck arrived last week from Rakeway Motorsport engineering.
I can now pass this over to my fabricator to make a start on my fuel cell.
I will have a more interesting update in the next day or two.
I can now pass this over to my fabricator to make a start on my fuel cell.
I will have a more interesting update in the next day or two.
Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:33 pm
Shiney and purposeful Ben 
Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:22 pm
Geez some top shelf work there. I do like that sub frame. What width rim did you use in the rear? Will probably be the KR-1 that KHI should have built.
Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:02 am
Thanks Lozza, it's a 5" rearTwoStroke Institute wrote:Geez some top shelf work there. I do like that sub frame. What width rim did you use in the rear? Will probably be the KR-1 that KHI should have built.
Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 12:54 am
So a 160-165 rear? That will increase grip levels by about a factor of a 1000. Probably even take some time to convince yourself just how insanely fast you can corner. Good suspension lets on the power much earlier. That should be a right weapon once finished. How you going with the ignition?
Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:31 am
Total loss, with one of Borut's race flywheels and ignitions.
Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:23 pm
As promised here are the steps to creating a carbon fibre hugger.
I made the original out of a combination of fiberglass and David Isopon’s P38 & P40. It looks okay in the picture, but it’s as rough as old bollocks on the inside and weighs a shed load.
I had some nice green paint to hand, so went about using that up to give it a decent finish.
Next steps were to polish and cover it with the usual blue PVA release agent. Once the release agent is dry, you can give it a good covering of your gel coat. Allow this to cure for an hour or two, just so it’s tacky to the touch.
Once you’ve left it for a while, you can apply the fiberglass layers with your resin mix.
Allow it to dry thoroughly and pop the mould from the part. In this picture, you can see the blue release agent where it has come away from the mould. It’s like a water soluble skin.
Clean up the edges with the dremel and give the inside a polish with some T-Cut. Once polished, give it a good clean, otherwise the PVA release agent won’t apply evenly and you’ll have a nightmare with it.
Apply an even layer of release agent and allow to dry again.
Mix a small quantity of your clear resin. For carbon fibre, I use a high gloss clear resin, which is different to the fibre glassing resin. Apply the resin evenly to your mould with a brush and go over it with a heat gun. This gets out any air which was mixed in to the resin and gives you a glass like finish.
Allow this to dry for a couple of hours, so it’s gone off, but still tacky to the touch. Get your carbon fibre fabric and apply to the mould. I find it best to do this bit with your hands, being careful not to disturb the weave. Remember, this layer is the one you will have to look at if you cock it up, so do take care.
Once you have the first layer down, you can get some more resin and apply the other layers to complete the part allow to dry thoroughly.
Once dry you can remove the part from the mould, clean up the edges with your dremel and a file. Wash any residue release agent off, give it a polish and sit back and admire your work.
Thanks Daz for lending me your rivit gun and thanks for the rivits Fred.
I made the original out of a combination of fiberglass and David Isopon’s P38 & P40. It looks okay in the picture, but it’s as rough as old bollocks on the inside and weighs a shed load.
I had some nice green paint to hand, so went about using that up to give it a decent finish.
Next steps were to polish and cover it with the usual blue PVA release agent. Once the release agent is dry, you can give it a good covering of your gel coat. Allow this to cure for an hour or two, just so it’s tacky to the touch.
Once you’ve left it for a while, you can apply the fiberglass layers with your resin mix.
Allow it to dry thoroughly and pop the mould from the part. In this picture, you can see the blue release agent where it has come away from the mould. It’s like a water soluble skin.
Clean up the edges with the dremel and give the inside a polish with some T-Cut. Once polished, give it a good clean, otherwise the PVA release agent won’t apply evenly and you’ll have a nightmare with it.
Apply an even layer of release agent and allow to dry again.
Mix a small quantity of your clear resin. For carbon fibre, I use a high gloss clear resin, which is different to the fibre glassing resin. Apply the resin evenly to your mould with a brush and go over it with a heat gun. This gets out any air which was mixed in to the resin and gives you a glass like finish.
Allow this to dry for a couple of hours, so it’s gone off, but still tacky to the touch. Get your carbon fibre fabric and apply to the mould. I find it best to do this bit with your hands, being careful not to disturb the weave. Remember, this layer is the one you will have to look at if you cock it up, so do take care.
Once you have the first layer down, you can get some more resin and apply the other layers to complete the part allow to dry thoroughly.
Once dry you can remove the part from the mould, clean up the edges with your dremel and a file. Wash any residue release agent off, give it a polish and sit back and admire your work.
Thanks Daz for lending me your rivit gun and thanks for the rivits Fred.
Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:27 pm
That's a brilliant post Ben... Really good instruction and a great job !
Can't wait to see my airbox
Cheers Bud
Kev
Can't wait to see my airbox
Cheers Bud
Kev