I've started so I'll finish

Show us that box of bits in your shed!
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Luders
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Post by Luders »

Very impressive standard, you must be feeling pleased.
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pablo
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Post by pablo »

SP_BOTT wrote:That's looking very good mate, what was the problem with the piston in the end, or did I miss that somewhere. Did you get all the original bolts replated or buy new ones?
Thanks chaps I'm pleased with the way it's coming on.

I thought I might have had a bit of a problem with one of the pistons being a bit tight in the barrel,but I removed both cleaned everything with carb cleaner.Then refitted everything with a fresh application of 2st oil and all appears well.

I had the original bolts replated cos I want to keep it looking original.Some of them were too far gone to be replated but I had enough spares to replace them.

While I was stripping the motor I found a couple of the outer case studs were doing bugger all cos the threads had been damaged :roll: Luckily the cuprit had used a shorter stud and I found enough good thread further down to rescue the situation.

While I'm at it can I ask some advice.Am I right in thinking I can prime the oil pump using a syringe to fill the pump via the hose from the tank.Then turn the motor to fill the lines :?

Thanks in advance
"Turned out nice again"
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Howie
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Post by Howie »

While I'm at it can I ask some advice.Am I right in thinking I can prime the oil pump using a syringe to fill the pump via the hose from the tank.Then turn the motor to fill the lines
You should be able to fill the oil pump using gravity. On top of the oil pump should be a bleed screw, just fill the tank as normal, undo the bleed screw then wait for the oil to seep out.

I would use the syringe to fill the lines though! You don't want the engine running to bleed them. I have always added a small amount of oil to the petrol on first start up, just in case, although some say this isn't necessary.
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pablo
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Post by pablo »

Thanks mate.I was thinking when I do get around to start up I would use a small aux fuel tank filled with premix.Just untill I know everything is working as it should.
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Howie
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Post by Howie »

Yep thats the idea Pablo,

Better to be safe than sorry etc etc.

Doing it with an auxiliary tank also allows you to test the oil pumps performance by removing the check valves & timing the flow of oil over a set time.

But please don't ask me what the flow rate should be, cos of the top of my head, I haven't a clue. Can probably look it up for you though if you want?
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martin
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Post by martin »

have a look in the manual,
i know its there as i read the section when i bled my oil
pump
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fully restored green/white kr1 b2
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Tambo
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Post by Tambo »

Howie wrote:
While I'm at it can I ask some advice.Am I right in thinking I can prime the oil pump using a syringe to fill the pump via the hose from the tank.Then turn the motor to fill the lines
You should be able to fill the oil pump using gravity. On top of the oil pump should be a bleed screw, just fill the tank as normal, undo the bleed screw then wait for the oil to seep out.

I would use the syringe to fill the lines though! You don't want the engine running to bleed them. I have always added a small amount of oil to the petrol on first start up, just in case, although some say this isn't necessary.
I connected the oil up before fitting the casing, and ran the pump on a drill to bleed the system right up to the carb rubbers. Another tip is to hold the pump on 'full' for a minute or so on start up to have max oil for the lowest possible engine speed.

It's always a nervous moment 8-[
Kr1s c3, vfr750fg, Dnepr MT11, Pegaso 650
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pablo
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Post by pablo »

[/quote].

It's always a nervous moment 8-[[/quote]

Your not kidding it's a way off still but it's causing me some anxiety 8-[ given whats gone into the motor.Don't have this carry on with premix dirt bikes.

Thanks again chaps
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martin
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Post by martin »

this is how i did mine.
block the reed block holes off.
get two lenghs of clear tubing and attach
each one to the ends of the oil lines,and use a couple of
small bottles to catch the oil,
fill the petrol tank with premix.33.1
bleed the oil pump via the oil pump bleed screw.
then run the bike up .
hold the pump lever fully open whilst the bike is
running[will bleed quicker]
current bikes
fully restored green/white kr1 b2
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pablo
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Post by pablo »

Things have come to a complete standstill on the KR1s front due to two new additions to the family.I dare'nt take my eyes off them for a minute.

Image

They're a right handfull :roll: They're both Border terriers.The big'un is a 16mth old and the little'un is 8 weeks.I can't get owt done but they have had me in fits of laughter today.
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Howie
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Post by Howie »

Aw bless em.

I love dogs me, actually I love most animals apart from horses.

The little un reminds me of when we got our pup (4yrs ago now), she was only 8 weeks old & a handful, still is really :D

Got names for them Pablo?
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500bernie
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Post by 500bernie »

Hi Pablo,

They look great =D>

Everyone should have a couple of terriers.....

Image
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375
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Post by 375 »

Mine has good taste :)

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pablo
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Post by pablo »

Thats mint.Terriers and two strokes.Little and edgey :lol:

The big'n came with the name Ruby and we've called the little'n Amber.

Love the pictures too.
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pablo
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Post by pablo »

Went out to the garage yesterday hoping to start the KR1S.

Fitted two new spark plugs,nice strong spark,Filled the system with coolant,hung the left side exhaust (temp measure still hav'nt decoked them).Then went to hang the right side exhaust and noticed a black line down the weld on the bottom engine mount 8-[ Fitted me glasses to me head and a nice inch long crack came nicely into focus :?

I'm not a p'd off as I thought I would've been at this point.I need to get it repaired without doing to much damage to the powder coat :-k

I reckon I missed it at the point where the frame went to the powder coaters and the PC has hidden it till I fitted the motor :roll:

Who knows.Anyway it's there and I'll have to sort it.It's the first real set back I've had.

Still would've been nice to hear it spark up :roll:
"Turned out nice again"
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