New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
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New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
I`ve had this one on the back burner for a while, gradually accumulating and refurbishing various parts and assemblies until I had time and space to make a proper start but now I`m ready to get going with it.
The finished bike is only going to be about 40% KR-1- do you reckon that`s enough to warrant a build thread on here...?
Rick
The finished bike is only going to be about 40% KR-1- do you reckon that`s enough to warrant a build thread on here...?
Rick
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
sure.
My KR1 with SV650 engine only had I thinck 5 not-altered original parts.
as long as it has a KR engine or frame, you can put it here as far as I'm concerned
My KR1 with SV650 engine only had I thinck 5 not-altered original parts.
as long as it has a KR engine or frame, you can put it here as far as I'm concerned
My ultimate goal is to die young as late as possible !
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
Lots of people used to fit yamaha RD350 motors in Suzuki 250 gammas, called them Yamma Gammas, would be interesting to see a Kr-1 with an NSR 250 h***a or Suzuki RGV 250 V twin two stroke in it 

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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
With all due respect, what would be the point? The NSR and RGV both have standard chassis just as good as the KR-1 and neither engine makes significantly more power.
The YamaGamma and to an even greater extent this project both put the RD engine in a much more modern and better handling chassis or, looking at it the other way round, give the KR-1 a power increase which the frame can easily handle - the 421 Banshee engine should make close to 80bhp.
Rick
The YamaGamma and to an even greater extent this project both put the RD engine in a much more modern and better handling chassis or, looking at it the other way round, give the KR-1 a power increase which the frame can easily handle - the 421 Banshee engine should make close to 80bhp.
Rick
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
Point taken about the power being the same, seems that other posts on here have already discussed the possibility of a V-Twin KR-1, a replica of the X-09 would have been interesting. viewtopic.php?p=137532#p137532
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
one day I'm gonna built a bike to with an RD engine.
but certainly not with an Athena kit. A good 2-stroke engine is +/- square. An RD350 is already oversquare and the athena kit only makes this worse. I know it's a "cheap" way, but I'm gonna do it differently.
Already 10 years I have everything, but haven't gotten round to start working on it. I'm going for a 7mm stroker with original 64 bore giving me 64x61 with 392.5 cc's (instead of 68x58 with athena with +4mm) . as cylinders I'm gonna use standard Banshee's (don't care about powervalves), but I've bought sleeves with no wholes for the ports. So I'll need to make them myself, and that way I can make a double exhaust port's giving me plenty of blowdown.
Frame will probbly be a Mito (strted collecting Mito parts some years ago and have 8 of them).
but certainly not with an Athena kit. A good 2-stroke engine is +/- square. An RD350 is already oversquare and the athena kit only makes this worse. I know it's a "cheap" way, but I'm gonna do it differently.
Already 10 years I have everything, but haven't gotten round to start working on it. I'm going for a 7mm stroker with original 64 bore giving me 64x61 with 392.5 cc's (instead of 68x58 with athena with +4mm) . as cylinders I'm gonna use standard Banshee's (don't care about powervalves), but I've bought sleeves with no wholes for the ports. So I'll need to make them myself, and that way I can make a double exhaust port's giving me plenty of blowdown.
Frame will probbly be a Mito (strted collecting Mito parts some years ago and have 8 of them).
My ultimate goal is to die young as late as possible !
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
General opinion on US Banshee forums seems to be that running those 68mm Athena barrels with a +4 crank for 421cc works a lot better than the other option of using them as a very oversquare 392cc kit with a stock 54mm stroke crank so that would seem to back up your hypothesis...
In due course I will be building a 72 x 61 497cc engine with CPI barrels, I already have all the parts here including a brand new set of Banshee cases, which are heavier duty than 350YPVS ones with more thickness in the bottom case so you can cut a trench for big end clearance on the +7 crank without significantly weakening it.
In due course I will be building a 72 x 61 497cc engine with CPI barrels, I already have all the parts here including a brand new set of Banshee cases, which are heavier duty than 350YPVS ones with more thickness in the bottom case so you can cut a trench for big end clearance on the +7 crank without significantly weakening it.
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
So - this is what I`m starting with...
KR-1 frame modified by Nigel Kimber to take a 350YPVS engine and NC30 rear end.


A nice clean NC30 swingarm.

VFR750 rear wheel, matching 5-spoke magnesium front, modified ZXR400H yokes, ZX-6R forks.

Custom built Nitron R2 shock (NC30 fitment but with lighter spring and damping)

Tokico 4-pad radial calipers & Nissin radial master cylinder.

Lots more in boxes but those are the big bits, all rebuilt/refurbished as necessary - I plan to start bolting it together this weekend if time permits, will post more soon...
KR-1 frame modified by Nigel Kimber to take a 350YPVS engine and NC30 rear end.


A nice clean NC30 swingarm.

VFR750 rear wheel, matching 5-spoke magnesium front, modified ZXR400H yokes, ZX-6R forks.

Custom built Nitron R2 shock (NC30 fitment but with lighter spring and damping)

Tokico 4-pad radial calipers & Nissin radial master cylinder.

Lots more in boxes but those are the big bits, all rebuilt/refurbished as necessary - I plan to start bolting it together this weekend if time permits, will post more soon...
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
Swingarm and Rear Suspension -
This frame was built by Nigel Kimber for Paul Beaumont - I bought it from Paul a few years ago, he said that it had worked OK but he thought the back end sat a bit low, also the original build had used the KR-1 16mm swingarm pivot bolt and a variety of spacers to fit the 20mm bore NC30 swingarm so those were two things to address at this stage.
First the swingarm mounting holes in the frame were bored to 20mm so everything would go together with a standard KR-1S pivot bolt.
You`ll know that most bikes with alloy frames use some kind of adjustable mounts for the engine and swingarm to avoid `squeezing` and stressing any of the frame castings, which might cause them to crack - the NC30 uses this kind of mounting system but in the interests of simplicity and lightness I have taken the more old fashioned route of simply shimming out any lateral play in the joint before tightening the bolt.

Standard NC30 bolt at bottom - top hat spacer on the left is hardened/chromed as the needle roller bearing runs directly on it.
I have cut down that spacer to 35mm long and made another one for the right side with the same dimensions as the nose of the adjuster sleeve and 7mm thickness. When assembled this leaves both spacers just proud of their oil seals and gives an overall width exactly 0.5mm less than the internal dimension of the frame - this makes the arm easy to fit and a 0.5mm shim slipped in beside the spacer takes the clearance down to zero before fitting and tightening the bolt.
I am using the stock NC30 suspension rocker along with one of my 8mm shorter than standard bottom links to raise the rear ride height.

Standard rocker (left) has a solid rubber bush at the shock mounting point - this somewhat impedes the action of the linkage so that bush has been removed (right) and replaced with a full complement roller bearing, hardened sleeve and seals to give full and proper articulation.
The first attempted bolt together revealed a small problem (the joy of special building!) in that the bottom link mount on the frame had been fitted 3mm too far to the right so the link and rocker didn`t line up...

After some consideration I took the easy way out of that one - the bottom link is steel and relatively malleable so I simply eased a very slight `dog leg` into each arm of the link and all was well -

Everything else went together with no issues so - we have rear suspension -

You`ll notice a sight change of plan regarding the swingarm. I decided that the (somewhat rare) undamaged standard one would be better saved for a VFR rebuild that I`ll be doing next year so as the spars of this frame had been polished at some time in its history I buffed them up again, had a go at the bare alloy frame cradle with some fine Scotchbrite and Belgom and used a polished arm that I had stashed in my loft instead.

That`ll do for this weekend...
This frame was built by Nigel Kimber for Paul Beaumont - I bought it from Paul a few years ago, he said that it had worked OK but he thought the back end sat a bit low, also the original build had used the KR-1 16mm swingarm pivot bolt and a variety of spacers to fit the 20mm bore NC30 swingarm so those were two things to address at this stage.
First the swingarm mounting holes in the frame were bored to 20mm so everything would go together with a standard KR-1S pivot bolt.
You`ll know that most bikes with alloy frames use some kind of adjustable mounts for the engine and swingarm to avoid `squeezing` and stressing any of the frame castings, which might cause them to crack - the NC30 uses this kind of mounting system but in the interests of simplicity and lightness I have taken the more old fashioned route of simply shimming out any lateral play in the joint before tightening the bolt.

Standard NC30 bolt at bottom - top hat spacer on the left is hardened/chromed as the needle roller bearing runs directly on it.
I have cut down that spacer to 35mm long and made another one for the right side with the same dimensions as the nose of the adjuster sleeve and 7mm thickness. When assembled this leaves both spacers just proud of their oil seals and gives an overall width exactly 0.5mm less than the internal dimension of the frame - this makes the arm easy to fit and a 0.5mm shim slipped in beside the spacer takes the clearance down to zero before fitting and tightening the bolt.
I am using the stock NC30 suspension rocker along with one of my 8mm shorter than standard bottom links to raise the rear ride height.

Standard rocker (left) has a solid rubber bush at the shock mounting point - this somewhat impedes the action of the linkage so that bush has been removed (right) and replaced with a full complement roller bearing, hardened sleeve and seals to give full and proper articulation.
The first attempted bolt together revealed a small problem (the joy of special building!) in that the bottom link mount on the frame had been fitted 3mm too far to the right so the link and rocker didn`t line up...

After some consideration I took the easy way out of that one - the bottom link is steel and relatively malleable so I simply eased a very slight `dog leg` into each arm of the link and all was well -

Everything else went together with no issues so - we have rear suspension -

You`ll notice a sight change of plan regarding the swingarm. I decided that the (somewhat rare) undamaged standard one would be better saved for a VFR rebuild that I`ll be doing next year so as the spars of this frame had been polished at some time in its history I buffed them up again, had a go at the bare alloy frame cradle with some fine Scotchbrite and Belgom and used a polished arm that I had stashed in my loft instead.

That`ll do for this weekend...
Last edited by RickNC30 on Thu Dec 05, 2024 2:44 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
look forward to more updates. i allways wanted to put a ypvs into a kr1/1s
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
Rear Hub and Brake -
Eccentric hub is a standard NC30 part -

I actually managed to find a relatively undamaged one which is a rare thing - why is it that owners of bikes with single-sided rear ends would rather destroy a £350 hub by smashing it round with a hammer and screwdriver than spend £20 on the correct adjusting tool...?
Axle is also NC30 but modified to fit the VFR750 5.0 x 17" wheel -

The axle nose is shortened and reduced in diameter, the original drive pins are removed and the holes plugged, then re-drilled bigger diameter and at a larger PCD to take the OEM 750 wheel studs.
NC30 rear calipers are a pretty poor design and hard to find in decent condition so I`m using one made by the Chinese company FXCNC - they produce very nice quality parts, this caliper has the same mounting dimensions and uses the same pads as the Brembo P32 which is fitted to a lot of big Italian bikes and is arguably a better design as it has a separator spring to keep the pads completely clear of the disc when at rest.


The rest of the set up consists of one of my Brembo caliper adaptor brackets, an Arashi wavy disc to match the fronts and some EBC HH pads - the only problem with the FXCNC caliper is that the texture of the pads they supply is more like Lino than Ferodo...

Because the new caliper is an opposed piston type (rather than having two adjacent pistons on the same side like the original), it has to sit further to the left in order to clear the inside of the wheel so the disc also has to move around 8mm to the left in order to match the caliper`s centre line - this is simply done with spacers and longer bolts as seen here. The fancy black anodised titanium wheel nuts were made for me by a friend of a friend in Germany.

Here`s the finished job - I have tried to resist but I will be replacing all the rusty steel fasteners with shiny titanium ones as soon as they arrive in the post.

I think that we need to set up a support group for Ti addicts - once you start, it`s a slippery slope...
One more touch for the rear end - a new, lighter, hollow swingarm pivot bolt made by cutting down and re-threading a ZX-6R component - if you want to make one for your KR-1S you can use either an F1 or G1 model bolt as the donor, they are different lengths (288mm/312mm) but the end result is the same. New bolt length is 271mm measured from under the head to the end of the bolt, with 24mm of thread on the end.

Eccentric hub is a standard NC30 part -

I actually managed to find a relatively undamaged one which is a rare thing - why is it that owners of bikes with single-sided rear ends would rather destroy a £350 hub by smashing it round with a hammer and screwdriver than spend £20 on the correct adjusting tool...?
Axle is also NC30 but modified to fit the VFR750 5.0 x 17" wheel -

The axle nose is shortened and reduced in diameter, the original drive pins are removed and the holes plugged, then re-drilled bigger diameter and at a larger PCD to take the OEM 750 wheel studs.
NC30 rear calipers are a pretty poor design and hard to find in decent condition so I`m using one made by the Chinese company FXCNC - they produce very nice quality parts, this caliper has the same mounting dimensions and uses the same pads as the Brembo P32 which is fitted to a lot of big Italian bikes and is arguably a better design as it has a separator spring to keep the pads completely clear of the disc when at rest.


The rest of the set up consists of one of my Brembo caliper adaptor brackets, an Arashi wavy disc to match the fronts and some EBC HH pads - the only problem with the FXCNC caliper is that the texture of the pads they supply is more like Lino than Ferodo...

Because the new caliper is an opposed piston type (rather than having two adjacent pistons on the same side like the original), it has to sit further to the left in order to clear the inside of the wheel so the disc also has to move around 8mm to the left in order to match the caliper`s centre line - this is simply done with spacers and longer bolts as seen here. The fancy black anodised titanium wheel nuts were made for me by a friend of a friend in Germany.

Here`s the finished job - I have tried to resist but I will be replacing all the rusty steel fasteners with shiny titanium ones as soon as they arrive in the post.

I think that we need to set up a support group for Ti addicts - once you start, it`s a slippery slope...
One more touch for the rear end - a new, lighter, hollow swingarm pivot bolt made by cutting down and re-threading a ZX-6R component - if you want to make one for your KR-1S you can use either an F1 or G1 model bolt as the donor, they are different lengths (288mm/312mm) but the end result is the same. New bolt length is 271mm measured from under the head to the end of the bolt, with 24mm of thread on the end.

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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
Yokes and Forks -
Yokes are from a ZXR400H - the bottom one has been bored to accept the 52mm diameter ZX-6R legs and both powder coated silver -

Aftermarket SSK904 taper roller bearings, all the seals and fittings are still available new from Kawasaki - titanium nut and washer pictured but I will probably either use the OEM domed version or turn that one down to half its current height for a slightly tidier look.

I know from my previous KR-1 build that some lock restriction will be required so I have pre-drilled and tapped M6 threaded holes into the stop blocks for adjusting bolts.

Fork legs are from a 2006 ZX-6R C1H model, rebuilt with new seals and bushes, 0.75kg/mm springs and filled with 2.5W oil.

Handlebars are slightly modified GSX-R1000 parts with the locating pegs removed from the clamps and the tabs which engage with the standard weights smoothed off the ends of the bars.

Yokes are from a ZXR400H - the bottom one has been bored to accept the 52mm diameter ZX-6R legs and both powder coated silver -

Aftermarket SSK904 taper roller bearings, all the seals and fittings are still available new from Kawasaki - titanium nut and washer pictured but I will probably either use the OEM domed version or turn that one down to half its current height for a slightly tidier look.

I know from my previous KR-1 build that some lock restriction will be required so I have pre-drilled and tapped M6 threaded holes into the stop blocks for adjusting bolts.

Fork legs are from a 2006 ZX-6R C1H model, rebuilt with new seals and bushes, 0.75kg/mm springs and filled with 2.5W oil.

Handlebars are slightly modified GSX-R1000 parts with the locating pegs removed from the clamps and the tabs which engage with the standard weights smoothed off the ends of the bars.

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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
Wheels, Tyres etc -
Rear wheel is a 5.0 x 17" from an RC36/2 model VFR750, stripped and powder coated gloss black, new 160/60-17 Bridgestone S21 tyre fitted.

Front is a 3.5 x 17" 5-spoke wheel that I`ve had for years and used on my own NC30 for a while - absolutely no idea who made it but it is a hollow magnesium casting, very light and matches the VFR rear nicely. Incidentally, whatever scare stories you might hear about the durability of mag wheels, this one must be 30 years old and a pre-coating crack test showed it to be sound as a bell. New 120/60-17 S21 tyre fitted.

Discs are 296mm Arashi wavies - they are Chinese made but the finish and build quality is just as good as OEM.
I`ve also started fitting a few of the ancillary bits which I`ve been collecting over the last year or so, good used oil tank, coolant reservoir and inner rear mudguard, NOS fuse box - also I couldn`t resist grabbing one of Tyga`s pretty, lightweight chain guards.


Overall progress so far...

Rear wheel is a 5.0 x 17" from an RC36/2 model VFR750, stripped and powder coated gloss black, new 160/60-17 Bridgestone S21 tyre fitted.

Front is a 3.5 x 17" 5-spoke wheel that I`ve had for years and used on my own NC30 for a while - absolutely no idea who made it but it is a hollow magnesium casting, very light and matches the VFR rear nicely. Incidentally, whatever scare stories you might hear about the durability of mag wheels, this one must be 30 years old and a pre-coating crack test showed it to be sound as a bell. New 120/60-17 S21 tyre fitted.

Discs are 296mm Arashi wavies - they are Chinese made but the finish and build quality is just as good as OEM.
I`ve also started fitting a few of the ancillary bits which I`ve been collecting over the last year or so, good used oil tank, coolant reservoir and inner rear mudguard, NOS fuse box - also I couldn`t resist grabbing one of Tyga`s pretty, lightweight chain guards.


Overall progress so far...

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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
Not much building time in the run up to Christmas but I`ve fitted in a few more odd jobs...
Front mudguard - the stock ZX-6R fender is a bit big and clunky, the one fitted to the ZX-10R is smaller and lighter and only requires a couple of simple brackets to position it correctly -


M6 flat head mounting Allen bolts are actually designed for flat pack furniture but work a treat on bike panels...
The seat mounting bar, regulator/coil mounting plate and modified prop stand (don`t need the gear lever pivot so I removed it to allow access to the frame cradle bolts) are all back from powder coating so those went on next -

The bolt spacings for the Electrex pattern 350YPVS reg/rec and the Ignitech ignition coil are happily both the same as KR-1 so other than shaving half a fin off the reg/rec case to clear the up curve of the mounting plate that bit of the electrical package went together with no bother -


Switches and levers - it`s difficult to find generic switchgear which doesn`t have a starter button so I decided to go with a pattern set of the type used on the late seventies KH series two stroke triples - it gives a nice neat matching look and I always did like the left thumb operated choke lever -


Generic Superbike grips, Warrior bar ends, ZX-6R clutch lever, GSX-R1000 brake master cylinder.
You can`t buy an OEM or replica ignition switch to fit the ZXR400H yokes but the L model switch goes on nicely with only a couple of extra spacers - even the steering lock works...

Just sorting out the placement and mounting of electrical components for now, I will build a custom wiring loom further down the line.
I feel the bike will probably need a steering damper (my KR-1 certainly did) - this is a provisional first fitting, I have just ordered another style of damper with the adjuster at the front of the body which I`m hoping will allow me to move the body clamp right to the back end and do away with that intermediate bracket.

Second attempt looks much better...

A postscript to the steering damper story - the one I finally fitted is made by FXCNC, it`s a longer stroke, side mount version of their cross mount damper, unfortunately they didn`t think to adjust the damping force to allow for the fact that the side configuration puts the damper mounting point twice as far from the steering axis so even on its lightest setting it is way too stiff - I will shortly be sending the damper down to Darren at MCT to see whether he can rebuild/revalve it for a much lighter feel. If it can be done relatively cheaply that damper will be a good option for any KR1/S as the initial cost of the unit is only around £40, i.e. £200 cheaper than the Hyperpro equivalent.
Front mudguard - the stock ZX-6R fender is a bit big and clunky, the one fitted to the ZX-10R is smaller and lighter and only requires a couple of simple brackets to position it correctly -


M6 flat head mounting Allen bolts are actually designed for flat pack furniture but work a treat on bike panels...
The seat mounting bar, regulator/coil mounting plate and modified prop stand (don`t need the gear lever pivot so I removed it to allow access to the frame cradle bolts) are all back from powder coating so those went on next -

The bolt spacings for the Electrex pattern 350YPVS reg/rec and the Ignitech ignition coil are happily both the same as KR-1 so other than shaving half a fin off the reg/rec case to clear the up curve of the mounting plate that bit of the electrical package went together with no bother -


Switches and levers - it`s difficult to find generic switchgear which doesn`t have a starter button so I decided to go with a pattern set of the type used on the late seventies KH series two stroke triples - it gives a nice neat matching look and I always did like the left thumb operated choke lever -


Generic Superbike grips, Warrior bar ends, ZX-6R clutch lever, GSX-R1000 brake master cylinder.
You can`t buy an OEM or replica ignition switch to fit the ZXR400H yokes but the L model switch goes on nicely with only a couple of extra spacers - even the steering lock works...

Just sorting out the placement and mounting of electrical components for now, I will build a custom wiring loom further down the line.
I feel the bike will probably need a steering damper (my KR-1 certainly did) - this is a provisional first fitting, I have just ordered another style of damper with the adjuster at the front of the body which I`m hoping will allow me to move the body clamp right to the back end and do away with that intermediate bracket.

Second attempt looks much better...

A postscript to the steering damper story - the one I finally fitted is made by FXCNC, it`s a longer stroke, side mount version of their cross mount damper, unfortunately they didn`t think to adjust the damping force to allow for the fact that the side configuration puts the damper mounting point twice as far from the steering axis so even on its lightest setting it is way too stiff - I will shortly be sending the damper down to Darren at MCT to see whether he can rebuild/revalve it for a much lighter feel. If it can be done relatively cheaply that damper will be a good option for any KR1/S as the initial cost of the unit is only around £40, i.e. £200 cheaper than the Hyperpro equivalent.
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Re: New Build Project - KR-1 with 421 Athena Banshee motor.
It`s been a month or more, I have a free Sunday afternoon so here`s an update on some of the smaller jobs -
I`ve done all the plumbing for the front brakes and finally managed to find a fairly undamaged front fairing bracket courtesy of a breaker in Belgium - my fairing should be arriving from Skidmarx shortly, I will test fit it to be sure that this front bracket is entirely straight then the bracket is going over to my fabricator so he can make a jig and produce some aluminium copies for me - if anybody else wants one, let me know...

Rear lights, brackets etc.
Doing this the same way as on the Little Green Bike with a 2.5mm thick aluminium plate mounted under the rear end of the subframe, a universal number plate bracket and light -

- a 3mm black plastic `sandwich plate` to add rigidity to the assembly and generic indicators and reflector -

First swap out the rear light bracket mounting bolts for M6 x 45 -

- fit the plate -

- and the bracket -

Fix the number plate to the sandwich plate with double sided tape, assemble everything and that`s job done - lightweight, uncluttered and stable.

Battery Carrier -
I`m not using any part of the original KR-1airbox so an alternative battery location was needed - I came up with this two piece arrangement -

The 12.5mm holes in the lower part are a clearance fit over the flanges of the mounting rivnuts so that sits directly on the subframe cross rail -

- the mounting holes in the main box are countersunk so the battery rests on a flat surface and the rear wall is bolted to the inner mudguard for extra support -

All metalwork fitted -

- a sheet of 3mm thick self adhesive dense foam in the bottom of the box and a repurposed NC30 battery strap complete the job -

The other thing that I`ve done this week is to sort out how I`m going to get this off the bench single handed without hurting myself - a long ring bolt through the roof beam, a chain hoist and a sling constructed from a heavy duty ratchet strap will allow me to lift the chassis a few inches, slide the bench out from underneath then lower it gently to the floor - total outlay less than £40 and worth every penny!


I have the seat unit here already and the main pad and bum pad are back from the upholsterer so fitting that lot up is the next job. I`m still waiting for some footrest mounting plates from my friendly machinist but the fabricator is close to finishing my alloy tank - watch this space...
I`ve done all the plumbing for the front brakes and finally managed to find a fairly undamaged front fairing bracket courtesy of a breaker in Belgium - my fairing should be arriving from Skidmarx shortly, I will test fit it to be sure that this front bracket is entirely straight then the bracket is going over to my fabricator so he can make a jig and produce some aluminium copies for me - if anybody else wants one, let me know...

Rear lights, brackets etc.
Doing this the same way as on the Little Green Bike with a 2.5mm thick aluminium plate mounted under the rear end of the subframe, a universal number plate bracket and light -

- a 3mm black plastic `sandwich plate` to add rigidity to the assembly and generic indicators and reflector -

First swap out the rear light bracket mounting bolts for M6 x 45 -

- fit the plate -

- and the bracket -

Fix the number plate to the sandwich plate with double sided tape, assemble everything and that`s job done - lightweight, uncluttered and stable.

Battery Carrier -
I`m not using any part of the original KR-1airbox so an alternative battery location was needed - I came up with this two piece arrangement -

The 12.5mm holes in the lower part are a clearance fit over the flanges of the mounting rivnuts so that sits directly on the subframe cross rail -

- the mounting holes in the main box are countersunk so the battery rests on a flat surface and the rear wall is bolted to the inner mudguard for extra support -

All metalwork fitted -

- a sheet of 3mm thick self adhesive dense foam in the bottom of the box and a repurposed NC30 battery strap complete the job -

The other thing that I`ve done this week is to sort out how I`m going to get this off the bench single handed without hurting myself - a long ring bolt through the roof beam, a chain hoist and a sling constructed from a heavy duty ratchet strap will allow me to lift the chassis a few inches, slide the bench out from underneath then lower it gently to the floor - total outlay less than £40 and worth every penny!


I have the seat unit here already and the main pad and bum pad are back from the upholsterer so fitting that lot up is the next job. I`m still waiting for some footrest mounting plates from my friendly machinist but the fabricator is close to finishing my alloy tank - watch this space...