KR-1E
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- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1154
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:59 pm
- Location: west midlands
nooooooooooooooooooooo
you can,t put a electric engine in your bike (it would be like havin sex and only using half you d!"k
http://www.prox.co.uk/
there very good price wise
cheap pistons//rings ...no as well go japanese nothing else a few quid save now will almost deffo result in another rebuild later on mitaka are the best piston kits imho
take up elfs offer
and look into the postage from parcels2go
heres the link http://www.parcel2go.com/?lpsrc=overture
well you,ve nearly drove me drink (its a good job the offys shut )
you can,t put a electric engine in your bike (it would be like havin sex and only using half you d!"k
http://www.prox.co.uk/
there very good price wise
cheap pistons//rings ...no as well go japanese nothing else a few quid save now will almost deffo result in another rebuild later on mitaka are the best piston kits imho
take up elfs offer
and look into the postage from parcels2go
heres the link http://www.parcel2go.com/?lpsrc=overture
well you,ve nearly drove me drink (its a good job the offys shut )
2 strokes our way of life
- the-elf
- Avgas Sniffer
- Posts: 2800
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 2:48 pm
- Location: Rockingham, Western Australia
Yep Make me an offer for the two cylinders and pistons and they are yours. I've got no use for them and they are pretty good. I also have some nearly new rings, so all you'll need are some little end bearings. Check that your crank is good though before you put it all back together. It'll be a PITA to rebuild her only for the same thing to happen again if the crank needs rebuilding.
Also look at it as an investment cause these bikes are getting rare and are beginning to go up in value.
Also look at it as an investment cause these bikes are getting rare and are beginning to go up in value.
- SHimmer45
- Premix Junkie
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- Location: SOuthampton Hants UK
- Contact:
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- Light Smoker
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:12 pm
- Location: Manawatu, New Zealand
not in NZ they arent, there are too many toys in this country being dumped here from japan for anything to go up in value. Take my 95 h***a Accord Manual H22a VTEC Coupe on Nitrous, its JUST another car here. And my KR1 cost me $1000NZ (about 300pounds to you guys) last month!
I REALLY want your barrels and pistons please, and gaskets and what ever else I can get.
PM me a ball park figure please. Same to anyone else with any parts at all.
So far I have 2 gearboxes, 2 clutches, 3 carbs, 2 brand new carb boots and heaps of little parts.
I REALLY want your barrels and pistons please, and gaskets and what ever else I can get.
PM me a ball park figure please. Same to anyone else with any parts at all.
So far I have 2 gearboxes, 2 clutches, 3 carbs, 2 brand new carb boots and heaps of little parts.
Team Drifters
Team Asylum
Slydesigns Race Signs
Team Asylum
Slydesigns Race Signs
- moltenmaniac
- Newbie
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:20 am
- Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand
- moltenmaniac
- Newbie
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:20 am
- Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand
Update on the project time
just started working on it, got motor (18hp peak) which should be able to get it to around 130kmhr, if i stick to the manufactures specs this will take a while, however if i just overload the motor (and add a good cooling system) it will have proper motorcycle performance.
However the problem i have run into is the fact that almost nobody can certify electric vehicles, with petrol hitting 2bucks a litre this seems rather f**ked up. So ill register it as a moped for a while (50kmhr and 2kW limits ) and just switch off the limiters when i need to do some proper testing. This will also allow me to change as much shit around as i want as mopeds dont need to be certified or checked at all.
just started working on it, got motor (18hp peak) which should be able to get it to around 130kmhr, if i stick to the manufactures specs this will take a while, however if i just overload the motor (and add a good cooling system) it will have proper motorcycle performance.
However the problem i have run into is the fact that almost nobody can certify electric vehicles, with petrol hitting 2bucks a litre this seems rather f**ked up. So ill register it as a moped for a while (50kmhr and 2kW limits ) and just switch off the limiters when i need to do some proper testing. This will also allow me to change as much shit around as i want as mopeds dont need to be certified or checked at all.
1998 CR125
1988 h***a Bros
1984 VT250
KR1 Electric (under construction)
1988 h***a Bros
1984 VT250
KR1 Electric (under construction)
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- Premix Junkie
- Posts: 1305
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:49 am
- Location: Waikato, New Zealand
thats exactly what i wanted to hear with me only 6 weeks away from moving over thereslydesigns wrote:not in NZ they arent, there are too many toys in this country being dumped here from japan for anything to go up in value. Take my 95 h***a Accord Manual H22a VTEC Coupe on Nitrous, its JUST another car here. And my KR1 cost me $1000NZ (about 300pounds to you guys) last month!
- moltenmaniac
- Newbie
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:20 am
- Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand
- moltenmaniac
- Newbie
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:20 am
- Location: Palmerston North, New Zealand
OK, progress report copied from other site and edited a bit.
Got a kr-1s a few years ago to do up and put on the road, in fixing we got rings that had a different configuration at the split, long story short, the barrels now have a score through the nikasil powervalves were flip anyways so i decided to give up, by the time i get money to fix it properly ill be able to afford an aprillia rs250 (possibly considered prfanity on this site ) anyways.
Firstly i ripped out engine, cleaned and CADed up the rolling frame.
I obtained a motor from us (when nzd was at is max ) its an Etek-R which gives max power of 18hp, and continuous of around 10, which is bugger all but with a fully faired bike it should do a hundred easily.
mounted the motor onto the swingarm itself as it doesnt weight much and this eliminated the need for chain slack, thus slightly increasing efficiency.
ull notice some cnc maching on the mount, courtesy of my part time job at massey uni.
also got chain and sprockets custom form nz sprockets, 14tooth over a monster 68 tooth, i machined 4/5 of the weight out of the 68 tooth and mounted in place of the original
got some cheap agm deep cycle lead acid batteries (well cheap compared to the fancy batteries anyway!), welded up a battery box for them and stuck in.
got the e-stop made and stuck in now too
So work left is basically all circuitry, PWM controller, pack voltage to 13.4V converter, mains charger, and main control and monitoring circuit. I also have a few aesthetic bits to do, suck as replacing the KR-1 with KR-E on the lower fairing, and swapping out the tach dial with this
Got a kr-1s a few years ago to do up and put on the road, in fixing we got rings that had a different configuration at the split, long story short, the barrels now have a score through the nikasil powervalves were flip anyways so i decided to give up, by the time i get money to fix it properly ill be able to afford an aprillia rs250 (possibly considered prfanity on this site ) anyways.
Firstly i ripped out engine, cleaned and CADed up the rolling frame.
I obtained a motor from us (when nzd was at is max ) its an Etek-R which gives max power of 18hp, and continuous of around 10, which is bugger all but with a fully faired bike it should do a hundred easily.
mounted the motor onto the swingarm itself as it doesnt weight much and this eliminated the need for chain slack, thus slightly increasing efficiency.
ull notice some cnc maching on the mount, courtesy of my part time job at massey uni.
also got chain and sprockets custom form nz sprockets, 14tooth over a monster 68 tooth, i machined 4/5 of the weight out of the 68 tooth and mounted in place of the original
got some cheap agm deep cycle lead acid batteries (well cheap compared to the fancy batteries anyway!), welded up a battery box for them and stuck in.
got the e-stop made and stuck in now too
So work left is basically all circuitry, PWM controller, pack voltage to 13.4V converter, mains charger, and main control and monitoring circuit. I also have a few aesthetic bits to do, suck as replacing the KR-1 with KR-E on the lower fairing, and swapping out the tach dial with this
1998 CR125
1988 h***a Bros
1984 VT250
KR1 Electric (under construction)
1988 h***a Bros
1984 VT250
KR1 Electric (under construction)
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- Site Admin
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- Premix Junkie
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KR-1E Electric KR-1 EV
I though to KResurrect this topic, with the following links
http://www.tawatech.com/wordpress/kr-e- ... otorcycle/
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showt ... -E-lectric
I know someone has done this to a 'Prilla...
https://www.facebook.com/motosyncnz/pho ... e_internal
http://www.tawatech.com/wordpress/kr-e- ... otorcycle/
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showt ... -E-lectric
I know someone has done this to a 'Prilla...
https://www.facebook.com/motosyncnz/pho ... e_internal