1989 kr1 with kr1s bits and bobs

Show us that box of bits in your shed!
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headcoats
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Post by headcoats »

Jeff aka blueshockwave on here has some so may be worth PM-ing him :P
Can it yer old boiler
maccas
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Post by maccas »

Been a long time since an update so here is a list of things that will be getting done:

Zeeltronic programmable ignition ordered
No. 6 slides for carbs ordered
Need to fit bigger pilot jets
Get my ported kr1s barrels sent off for replating
New pistons
Rebuild front forks or go zxr750 front end
Smaller rear sprocket possibly 41/42 currently 45 tooth for some reason, previous owner
Re-synch throttle cables
Set float heights
Tweak pilot screws
Get it on the dyno and see what shes making

Progress will be slow as i now have 4 two stroke 250's all needing work!

Maccas
Luders
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Post by Luders »

I have a 42 or 43 tooth renthal sprocket if you want a light alternative to the stock steel ones.
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Post by maccas »

Hi Ben,

How much would you like for the 42 tooth rear sprocket?

I currently have an ally renthal sprocket on there so that would be ideal!

Maccas
Luders
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Post by Luders »

£10 should cover it and I should be able to post it this Thursday for you.
maccas
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Post by maccas »

Ben, you have PM

Cheers

Maccas
dave32
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Post by dave32 »

Great build!
Would look great in kr1 colours or how about Team green/Rizla for that retro look?
Probabaly a bit late now but you can mod the back of the slide to a larger opening with a decent half round file.
Just go half a mm at a time,saves alot of dosh,last time i checked a genuine PWK 35mm slide for a 91 kx125 was around £50 and that was over 10yrs ago!
I actually modded the slides on the stock carbs this way,as with the ported barrels it was a bit hesitant on the blip between down changes,opened the slide up .5mm and was a different bike!
Strange about the belly section not fitting,i would have thought they were designed to fit the stock bodywork.
On the airbox side are you running a lid,if so might be worth just using the front half and do away with the intake baffles.
ATB
Dave
Dave
maccas
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Post by maccas »

Hi Dave,

Those are some good points, i haven't ordered the slides just yet, but i think i will anyway as i want them to be the correct shape and size etc.

If i had a no.6 slide to copy off then i might have had a go at filing the 4.5's down.

I totally agree on the kr1 colours i think it would look much better.

I am currently running the full lid with a pipercross filter element.

You definitely think that chopping the back out of the lid is the way to go?

And jet up accordingly obviously.

At the moment the bike hits a brick wall at just over 11k, jetting is safe at the moment, could maybe come slightly down on main jet size but i have a cracking mid range so i don't want to lose that, when i get the zeeltronic i plan to drop the advance past peak to see if i can pick up some over rev while keeping the good midrange

Maccas
dave32
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Post by dave32 »

Hi Mate,
Yep it sounds quite hard to replicate the profile of the slide but its not,just measure from the top of the slide to half a mm short of the centre of cut out (highest part in centre) then just copy the profile with a penci/marker.
Providing you dont rush it with a bastard file your be fine! :D
Once you've done one your realise its not hard,i would say its alot easier than any mods to the porting as its easy to get and the material is quite soft.
Just dress it with some wet and dry afterwards.
The airbox lid isnt really restrictive on a stock engine,but its about on its limit with stock carbs for volume,without making another box the only option is to allow more air to enter,i prefer drawing cold still air rather than any home brewed forced induction pipes as they can mess with the carburation.
I found that running the front half only,even a stock ported motor with Gibson pipes would rev harder at the top end and pull the next gear easier.
It does create a bit more noise though :D
On a stock engine i went up a click on the needle and 2 up on the main.
The hitting a brick wall effect could just be the CDI,some seem to work better than others,i doubt its the jetting.
Also make sure you get genuine keihin jets as the aftermarker RD ones flow less which could be a bit confusing :shock: .
One thing tha does have an slight effect in rev range is closing up the pulser coil air gap to .25mm(slot the mounting holes),and running the plug gap at .5mm(B9egv for road B10egv for track).
If you remove the lug on the back of the pick up/pulsar coil and slot it left and right you can retard/advance the timing for free 8) .
Another thing is say you ended up with the needle on the richest setting and to save buying another needle you can file a flat up one side to richen it up.the needle doesnt care if its completely round only in the amount of fuel it delivers.
Keihins are very responsive to pilot jet size aswell,if its a bit of a bitch to start its too lean,if it starts from cold without choke its too big,when you get it right it really helps with part throttle.
On Mx carbs (PWK 35's) there normall too rich as stock.
Hope this is of some help,
Let us know how it goes
ATB
Dave
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Howie
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Post by Howie »

The hitting a brick wall effect could just be the CDI
Probably nothing to do with the problem you have maccas but the Kr1 & Kr1s used different CDI's. I was just wondering why?
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Post by maccas »

Dave,

That is all very helpful info, all the jets I have are genuine keihin so i should be ok there.
I will have a closer look at the slides when I am next home and the airbox too.
I agree that for just tweaking the ignition curve slotting the pick ups is useful however for the sake of 200quid for the zeel i can have infinite adjustability, therefore not take away from one part of the rev range and gain in another.
Plus i can change the rpm at which the powervalve opens and closes and also the speed at which it opens and closes. From reading on here opening as fast as possible is best.

Howie,

Yep this thread shows the 2 different ignition curves for the kr1 and kr1s:

viewtopic.php?t=7477&highlight=zeeltronic

Dave started that thread infact.

The kr1s cdi will have a different curve to suit the 1s pipes and different porting.

Maccas
maccas
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Post by maccas »

The zeeltronic unit comes with the kr1s map already loaded onto it so i am hoping the bike should rev higher due to the extra advance that the 1s map gives over the kr1 unit.

The unit should be here early next week so i will be able to post up the curve that is mapped onto the box for all to see.

Maccas
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500bernie
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Post by 500bernie »

Hi Maccas,

Does fitting the zeeltronic involve much additional work or is it almost a direct replacement?

Cheers,
Bernie :D
Firecracker Red and Grey C3 300
maccas
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Post by maccas »

Actually physically fitting the unit is fairly straight forward, soldering and fitting plugs etc.

Commissioning the unit involves doing a few checks with a stroboscope to double check that the unit is set up correctly for the bike its fitted to.

Ive never done it so its new to me but ive read lots of information about it on this and other forums.

Maccas
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500bernie
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Post by 500bernie »

maccas wrote: Commissioning the unit involves doing a few checks with a stroboscope to double check that the unit is set up correctly for the bike its fitted to.
Maccas
Now that sounds like fun :twisted:

I hope you are going to post a step by step guide with photos for the likes of me :oops:

Bernie :D
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