Luders wrote:Being realistic and in my experience, they usually take about 3 months.
bloody hell i send mine to a bloke i know who does a lot of tz's lc's nsr's ect
he charges 45 quid labour plus parts
normally 1 week including postage
you send crank he tells you what it needs and sends pics back of the build
ive got mine from my kr1s
I didn't mind, I'll go with a recommendation every time.. The guy at SEP said it'd take about 8 weeks when I took it in and he was spot on! Less than £200 quid for labour, new mains, seals and big end rollers and delivered back to me. If I'd been in a rush I'd have tried elsewhere but I told them it's winter rebuild so no hurry on it. Used to use Grampian a lot for YPVS stuff, don't mind who does it as long as I can trust the work is good and judging by the stuff SEP do I reckon it probably is!
"Did you supply the original-pattern magneto-side oil seal (with the locating ridge), or did SEP supply it? The seal kits I bought a long time ago came with a plain magneto-side seal (no ridge) and I was told the "proper" ones had been discontinued - please let us know!
Thanks & regards,
James"
If this is any use James, the seal has this on it:
bozbridge wrote:If this is any use James, the seal has this on it:
SKF 2692 SDCY 25 50 10
Thanks for the info. So...its not an original Arai Rubber "Ars" seal, but an SKF one? A cursory internet search revealed nothing, except that SKF doesn't seem to publish any tables for its engine oil seals! Where did you get it?
bozbridge wrote:If this is any use James, the seal has this on it:
SKF 2692 SDCY 25 50 10
Thanks for the info. So...its not an original Arai Rubber "Ars" seal, but an SKF one? A cursory internet search revealed nothing, except that SKF doesn't seem to publish any tables for its engine oil seals! Where did you get it?
Regards,
James
SEP supplied it with the crank, don't know if they can help you:
Did I spot KR1 KIPS valve in a KR1S barrel? From memory the holes in the valves should match the tunnel outer....not sure but thought it worth mentioning before it's all buttoned up.
Bit strange how that looks, there's actually no powervalves in the barrel, think that must be the cylinder transfer window looking out of place. I'll put the valves in and have a look up the exhaust and see how they line up, have got them new from BDK so hope they'll be a good match
if the barrels are still original, they are S-barrels as tke KR1 barrels have an extra vertical support on each side where the sub's come together with the main exhaust.
original KR1 barrels also have an extra port beneath the boost (rear) transfer, so if you don't have that one, they are S barrels.
My ultimate goal is to die young as late as possible !
