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Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Thu May 31, 2018 2:12 pm
by Garry
Do you ride with your lights on

I have always found the lights on these bikes tend to drain the battery down (i don't think the charging circuit is very powerful - personal experience but i may be wrong)

If your battery is not very good you may not be getting enough power to operate the power valve motor and lights at the same time (7500rpm)

May be worth getting a new battery if yours is a few years old

Not sure if this will help

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Thu May 31, 2018 10:34 pm
by JanBros
I've never had an even remotly decent battery in my bike. There is always one in, just to swallow the excess of current made by the charging system. My battery is so dead the bike won't start with the lights on as they (lights and battery together) drain too much power from the ignition while kicking.

But once that the motor is running, everything is fine, and we must have our headlight always on.
So no, the charging system is plenty powerful and lights on does not drain the battery. There must be something wrong with yours Garry.

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 6:16 am
by Garry
I know you do not need a battery to start the bike Jan, and you need it for the excess current.

However does it not operate the powervalve motor ?

I can only tell you all my bikes and electrics always work better with a decent battery

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 11:23 pm
by Marty_Rillo
Hi there!
I have had this kinda thing happen a few times.

Now for the conflicting experience.

On my bike, as the revs increase, to around 7500;rpm, if my battery is shit flat, I get this happening.
But I'm a cruel bastard, and I hold the old girl open, soooo.
Once the powervalves have cycled open she explodes into life again.

Now here's what was happening.

The bike can start just fine with no battery, it can also power a light when running, and as the revs rise you get the regulator doing its job, and battery charge etc.
But as the powervalve motor started to cycle at 7500 it was drawing all available current, and this meant that the coils didn't have the required voltage and I was getting a dull spark and no power, and brick walling.
Very odd.

So that happens pretty much every time I flatten the battery leaving the ignition on.

The end.
Cheers Martin.

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 9:37 am
by JanBros
Garry wrote: Fri Jun 01, 2018 6:16 am
However does it not operate the powervalve motor ?
it doesn't when switching on the contact. but the electric charging system always makes enough current to ride and use everything on the bike and extra to charge the battery.
maybe if the battery is too dead drawing away too much current, what Marty say's is happening.

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 7:48 pm
by Mouser
Ok, guys, that's worth a try!

I'll just connect a strong starting battery to the bike and warm-up the bike standing and trying if the valves switch at 7500.

@Martin: Maybe in your case the valves switch but there is no mor power for the spark....in my case the valves do NOT switch, they don't even move a f... little bit.

But, thanks for mentioning it, I will try it. My battery is very likely past its best years...

thanks
Mouser

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 6:09 pm
by Mouser
Hi guys,

I tried to connect the bike to a strong battery....the valves still won't move at 7000rpm.....

I checked the rectifier one again. The charging current is max 14.5V at 5000rpm...is this too much, should I change the rectifier or is this still ok?

So as for the valves....I think the problem will finally be the CDI :(((((.

Anybody got a spare CDI for the C3?

please mail me @ carmeni1@hotmail.com

thanks guys

Mouser

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:20 pm
by Binetta Steve

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:40 am
by Gerrit
If the regulator/rectifier is still the original one I'd replace that even if it seems to be working properly. The originals aren't the best and the last thing you want is for another CDI to be fried. The experts on the board can advise you on a suitable one.
21119-1234 is the KR-1 CDI, and 21119-1287 is the KR-1S CDI according to the Cradley Heath website. The KR-1 CDI will probably work on a 1S, but as I understand it the ignition advance curve is different. Not sure whether you'd notice any loss in power, though.
It might be worth investigating whether anyone can repair duff CDIs as they are No Longer Available from Kawasaki.

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 11:55 am
by Mouser
My rectifier is not the original one anymore, I changed it 3 years ago, to avoid having a fried CDI.....it has run maybe 2000km....max...
If the 14.5V at 5000rpm are still normal...than this cannot be the issue...nevertheless the CDI seems to be fried....

Yes, indeed the one on ebay is a KR1 CDI.

Anyone has tried both CDI on a KR1-S ? Any noticable power difference ?

Anyone got a CDI to sell :( ?


Thanks

Mouser

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 5:37 pm
by Gerrit
HPI in Belgium (www.hpi.be) offer a repair service for OEM CDIs according to their website. I don't know whether that includes the KR-1 and KR-1S iggy units, but there's no harm in asking. Nothing ventured, nothing gained and all that.

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 8:15 pm
by podman
Could you not fit a zeeltronic?

http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/pcdi-10v.php

At least it would be a new, working item without the SH gamble...

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:36 pm
by Mouser
Thanks for your replies!

How about the voltage. Anyone knows exactly if 14.5V at 5000 rpm is still normal or does that harm the CDI'

thanks
Mouser

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 10:27 pm
by JanBros
14.5 is perfectly normal. above 15.5 is troublesome.

Re: not rev'ing past7500

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 11:49 pm
by Marty_Rillo
Noo den mouser!

I have some info that may help.
Not guaranteed though!

When I first got my kr1s, then my electrician friend came round to solve some problems on it.
One of the screw ups he found was the stator and pickup wiring was butchered.
Thier are three wires from the pickup, and one or two go to the cdi.
The bike would start but wouldn't know where it was on the cycle, and as I wound on the throttle it would rev to around 7500 to 8000 and just brick wall.
It would also spit out a lot of oil fuel from the silencer!!
Matthew then swapped two wires in the connector block around and pop!
Off we went! perhaps the issue is in the wires telling the cdi what rpm it is like that?

Cheers Martin.