20A Fuse keeps blowing
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- Light Smoker
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20A Fuse keeps blowing
Hi Guys, putting my KR1-S I bought recently back together, it hasn't been run since 2007, and went to start, nothing, checked connections and found the 20A Fuse blown, had a spare so replaced and tried to start and its blown again. the loom was all connected when I got it, less kill switch, ignition switch and the connector from the pick up coils. Had a brief look at the connectors but can't see anything obvious, although as a race bike bits of the loom are chopped and the road connectors (lights etc) aren't connected. Any ideas?
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- Avgas Sniffer
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I had a similar problem a few years ago, but because it was a few years ago, I'm struggling to remember what was causing it.
I think it was something to do with the front brake light switch in my case.
I removed my entire loom last year and stripped it all right back to the bare essentials, removing all ignition switch and wiring it via the kill switch to on/off.
Have you got anything like switches like that left on the bike?
I think it was something to do with the front brake light switch in my case.
I removed my entire loom last year and stripped it all right back to the bare essentials, removing all ignition switch and wiring it via the kill switch to on/off.
Have you got anything like switches like that left on the bike?
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- ScottaKR
- Premix Junkie
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There's definately a short to ground there somewhere. Try checking where all the factory kill and cut-out switches were for any damage or wrongly setup bypass's. I'd also check the ignition switch itself, and anywhere the main power feeds through (like the rec\reg and stator).rgv mike wrote:turn on the ignition then a couple of seconds and it blows. Do you have an idea?
KR250 Tandem Twin (Naked)
KR1 Red/White
KR1S Track Bike (has been put on hold for now)
ZXR750 H1 (Winter project)
KR1 Red/White
KR1S Track Bike (has been put on hold for now)
ZXR750 H1 (Winter project)
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Have a look at the kill switch. If it's not that your problem is with the ignition switch somehow.
You might want to use this as an excuse to strip the loom right back and hot wire it to the kill switch.
One thing to bear in mind, the kill switch is opposite to a normal switch, so when in the run position, the contacts are broken.
You might want to use this as an excuse to strip the loom right back and hot wire it to the kill switch.
One thing to bear in mind, the kill switch is opposite to a normal switch, so when in the run position, the contacts are broken.
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- Avgas Sniffer
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There should be a red and yellow/red wire connected to the kill switch.
These need to be broken in order for the bike to run, so I think I just cut them short, added a couple of connectors to insulate and prevent any short circuits and taped them up.
I then cut the ignition wires and ran them to the kill switch.
It was a combination of white - white/brown and red/white - red
These need to be broken in order for the bike to run, so I think I just cut them short, added a couple of connectors to insulate and prevent any short circuits and taped them up.
I then cut the ignition wires and ran them to the kill switch.
It was a combination of white - white/brown and red/white - red
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