Newbie - daft question about KIPS

Emm81 · Post by **Emm81** » Tue May 06, 2008 3:01 pm

Hi all - firstly a big hello. I'm new - both to here and to KR1-S ownership.

Daft question, really but here goes: the KIPS valve - should it initialise upon turning the ignition on?

Mine doesn't seem to be (at least I can't hear it doing so). The battery isn't great and needs replacing - but the bike seems to be running and starting fine. (I'm impressed with how rapid these little bikes are!)

Cheers guys!

Red Devil 777 · Post by **Red Devil 777** » Tue May 06, 2008 4:33 pm

Hi, and welcome to the forum, re the kips, yep it should open and then close on turning on the ignition. However unlike the ypvs system it's pretty silent in operation so you wouldn't hear the 'whir whir whir' like noise associated with that.

mr_bungholeo · Post by **mr_bungholeo** » Tue May 06, 2008 6:18 pm

you can see the outer arms down the side of the fairing...think the kr1 sweeps open then closed fast...but the kr1s opens,waits a second or two then closes.....

Emm81 · Post by **Emm81** » Fri May 09, 2008 9:58 am

Cheers guys. I guess that's what fooled me. I raced a TZR250 and that made a whirring on startup.
Thank you.

SHimmer45 · Post by **SHimmer45** » Fri May 09, 2008 11:43 am

mr_bungholeo wrote:you can see the outer arms down the side of the fairing...think the kr1 sweeps open then closed fast...but the kr1s opens,waits a second or two then closes.....

i concur with that

just before a ride id always make sure the valves moved

the_bard · Post by **the_bard** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:47 am

Hey with the KIPS valves they should open and close when you turn on the ignition. However if they don't the bike will still start and run fine as their "idle" position is normal for operation up to 5500rpm or 6500rpm on the sports model however once you increase the revs beyond that you'll notice a major lapse in power and an absolutly horrible noise. this can also contribute to engine damage.
I also had a problem with a dicky battery and i'm too cheap to buy a new one. So what i would suggest would be to start the engine warm it up below 5500rpm then stop it, turn the ignition off and on again and then which will get the KIPS valves working with the little bit of charge you've given the battery and your good to go. But under NO circumstances should you actually ride the bike without the powervalves working!
You will seriously f$%& up your engine.

Bikemike · Post by **Bikemike** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:17 am

the_bard wrote: But under NO circumstances should you actually ride the bike without the powervalves working!
You will seriously f$%& up your engine.

That is true for RGV's but the KR is a better design

You can ride safely without the valves working, if they are in the closed position it will run fine up to 8000 rpm but then be gutless, if in the open position then you'll have nothing low down but it'll pull well at the top end.
Racers just used to wire them open as they never needed the bottom end.
I'm guessing that if it feels as lively as you suggest then all is fine.
Oh, and welcome!

Mike

KR-1R · Post by **KR-1R** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:24 pm

when you turn the ignition on

IF THEY DONT MOVE - FIRST HAVE A PLAY WITH THE TWO PUSH/PULL CABLES LEAVING THE SERVO MOTOR - INCORRECT OR UNEVEN TENSION AND THE MOTOR WONT SERVICE CHECK THE POWER VALVES

frog32 · Post by **frog32** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:18 pm

i concur with that

just before a ride id always make sure the valves moved
_________________

lol me too

Post by **alimorg** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:47 pm

KR-1R wrote:when you turn the ignition on

IF THEY DONT MOVE - FIRST HAVE A PLAY WITH THE TWO PUSH/PULL CABLES LEAVING THE SERVO MOTOR - INCORRECT OR UNEVEN TENSION AND THE MOTOR WONT SERVICE CHECK THE POWER VALVES

Deffo, lube the cables and slacken them off -or even remove them completely- just to check that your motor or CDI aint mullered, if the motor works re-attach the cables and tension them up but remember - too tight and the lot locks solid!
Cheers
Al

Post by **alimorg** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:48 pm

Bloody hell did I just say deffo - oh the shame of it!

the-elf · Post by **the-elf** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:30 am

Thing to remeber is that the cables run over the top of the engine and are subject to a fiar bit of heat so they need plenty of lubication and fairly often as well. Just spray WD40 down the ends while pulling the cable backwards and forwards by hand.