I cannot get any of the lights for dials to come on and also when the headlight is on (it works) the back light (brake light) will not come on (but does work when you hit back brake) I also noticed a wire off switch for front brake ... attached it and hit front brake and back light lit.. but only once ..and would not do it again (weird) I think there is something in common between the dials not illuminating and back light not coming on when headlamp is.. any idea what to look at as I am stumped ?
i would check for an earth first as lot of people have frames powder coated etc and then there isnt one unless you clean the bit of the frame off where it goes (got a few cheap with wiring faults like that) if not it will be a break in the wiring normally where it does the bend past the rad. Check it with a multi meter (about a tenner? ) set to ohms, use a pin to get through the insulation on the wiring and attach the meter to the end of the pins. Move the pin down a bit each time and you should be able to find out exactly where the break is so you dont need to replace the entire length just rejoin the broken bit
Hope that points you in the right direction?
Can someone check their bike and see if you turn ignition to on without starting the bike will your dash lights and back light come on when you switch them on ? I can get my headlight to come on with engine off (ignition on) but not dash lights and back light (stop light works when brakes pulled) .. i was thinking maybe they dont work unless engine is actually running.. I have tank off and cannot start mine now but was wondering if that might be it.. let me know as it would be a great help
Just checked. If the ignition is on, and the light's are switched on, then yes the lot should work. Dash light's, head and rear, and brake light works without the engine running.
Fixed it. I replaced the 2 10a fuses. The ones i took out were a 20a and 10a when both should of been 10a's .. either that or they were blown but they looked ok. They both went in the bin
if not it will be a break in the wiring normally where it does the bend past the rad. Check it with a multi meter (about a tenner? ) set to ohms, use a pin to get through the insulation on the wiring and attach the meter to the end of the pins. Move the pin down a bit each time and you should be able to find out exactly where the break is so you dont need to replace the entire length just rejoin the broken bit 
They both went in the bin 