KR-1S.co.uk Forum

here I explain what I did to reverse the working of the KIPS motor, so it's also an explanation of how the system works.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=7690&hilit=how+to+set+up+F3+valves

Thanks for all the help. I finally figured it last night!

The 3 wire connector goes down to a variable resistor under the servo unit, lets the CDI know where the pulley is. I took it off, measured what the resistance did over a few turns, plugged it all back in and span it by hand and the pulley started turning both ways. I put it it all back together and on the bike and hey presto the thing works! backwards and forwards when ignition is turned on. Not really sure why it didn't work before, I've not fixed anything broken but maybe the resistor just needed a complete turn to wipe all the contacts or something.. The resistor mounts on adjustable slots so I had to twiddle a bit so it lined up right when it's at "cl" but finally it's done!

Thanks for all the advice and offers of help/bits to try. I'm onto the valves themselves next so likely be a few more posts in the near future!

Well done =D> =D> =D>

interestingly when I put mine back together last night I found the kips would on an ign on, close and then open right away [or is it the other way around?], but once I'd set the cable tension correctly it would close, stay there for 2secs ish and then open again.
I know someone said earlier that KR1 did the open/close and not the open/2sec wait/close that the 1S does. I wonder if this was the reason, too tight cables?
Just a thought!

I'd tried with the pulley off and the motor just sitting on the frame, it still wouldn't work. I did find today though that I put the whole thing back together and if the cables are even slightly tight the motor judders a lot so the problem might not have completely gone. I've decided to leave it till I start riding it and see how it all settles in.

philfingers wrote:interestingly when I put mine back together last night I found the kips would on an ign on, close and then open right away [or is it the other way around?], but once I'd set the cable tension correctly it would close, stay there for 2secs ish and then open again.
I know someone said earlier that KR1 did the open/close and not the open/2sec wait/close that the 1S does. I wonder if this was the reason, too tight cables?
Just a thought!

always make sure the ignition was on long enough to complete the previous cycle before you test the cycling.
meaning : if you switch it on and close it again fast before it is complete, the next time you turn on the ignition, the CDI finds out the KIPS aren't in the correct closed position and instantly closes them and then starts up the cycling which might confuse you.