Syringe kits for bleeding.
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Syringe kits for bleeding.
Can anyone tell me what these syringe kits (for bleeding) are that I've seen mentioned and where they can be purchased from ??
- the-elf
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Get them off the bay. You attach them to the bled nipple and use them to suck the fluid down to the caliper.
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bleed.
I have just got one and they are good ,been doing a pair of rgv calipers.
If you draw the fluid down watch that you are not drawing air down past the thread on the bleed nipple if so put abit of plumbers ptf tape (white tape) around the nipple. It helped mine.
If you draw the fluid down watch that you are not drawing air down past the thread on the bleed nipple if so put abit of plumbers ptf tape (white tape) around the nipple. It helped mine.
- the-elf
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Just keep topping up the master res as you pull the fluid though. Get some Halfords 5.1 fluid and suck out the out stuff and replace it with new. then just suck the new though.
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- JanBros
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- ScottaKR
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I think you'll find he was refering to teflon tape rather than grease. It's simply to stop you drawing air past the threads as mentioned by others in earlier replies.Jiffi77 wrote:Hi JanBros what is the Teflon grease applied the blled nipple for ?JanBros wrote:don't forget to put teflon on the bleeding nipple
I used to suck it to out off the caliper, but nowedays I force it in through the caliper up to the master cylinder.
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while it doesnt mark paint isnt DOT5 more hydroscopic than Dot4? likes to absorb water from atmosphere - mixing with mineral Dot4 brake fluid recommended? even only traces of it [I know what glycol free coolant can do to some rubber (radiator cap seal) when mixed with glycol]
...anyway have just plumped out and bought one of these babies...
probably over kill but should be good value if you have a few bikes and cars - there's much cheaper versions (< <US$60) AND I WONT ASK IF ANY OF YOU HAVE HAND VACUUM PUMPS ALREADY LYING AROUND
instead of a syringe you could probably use a small grease gun (pump or syringe type)
OR how about
modifiy a small garden pressure sprayer (real cheap)! and lots of volume for drawing/pumping fluid (thick enough (see thru) vessel that should withstand a small vaccum pump or compressed air vacuum ejector)
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...are we talking DOT 5 synthetic fluid?the-elf wrote:Just keep topping up the master res as you pull the fluid though. Get some Halfords 5.1 fluid and suck out the out stuff and replace it with new. then just suck the new though.
while it doesnt mark paint isnt DOT5 more hydroscopic than Dot4? likes to absorb water from atmosphere - mixing with mineral Dot4 brake fluid recommended? even only traces of it [I know what glycol free coolant can do to some rubber (radiator cap seal) when mixed with glycol]
...anyway have just plumped out and bought one of these babies...
probably over kill but should be good value if you have a few bikes and cars - there's much cheaper versions (< <US$60) AND I WONT ASK IF ANY OF YOU HAVE HAND VACUUM PUMPS ALREADY LYING AROUND
instead of a syringe you could probably use a small grease gun (pump or syringe type)
OR how about
modifiy a small garden pressure sprayer (real cheap)! and lots of volume for drawing/pumping fluid (thick enough (see thru) vessel that should withstand a small vaccum pump or compressed air vacuum ejector)
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ahh, the vaccuum bleeders. They are pretty expensive and you've got to have a really good seal on the nipples to get them to work properly.
I rate the reverse bleed syringe method that a lot of people talk about highly. A completely dry system can be bled and have full lever feel in about 15-20 minutes and makes 0 mess. It is very easy to make a complete system for around 10-15 AUD, here is mine.
With a syringe you can push or pull fluid through the system.
I rate the reverse bleed syringe method that a lot of people talk about highly. A completely dry system can be bled and have full lever feel in about 15-20 minutes and makes 0 mess. It is very easy to make a complete system for around 10-15 AUD, here is mine.
With a syringe you can push or pull fluid through the system.
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- JanBros
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he specificaly mentionned DOT5.1 and that is mixable with DOT4 allthough I don't recommend DOT5.1, you have to change that very often because it decrades rather fast. only good for really fast racers. even today DOT4 is more than good enough.KR-1R wrote:.
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....are we talking DOT 5 synthetic fluid?the-elf wrote:Just keep topping up the master res as you pull the fluid though. Get some Halfords 5.1 fluid and suck out the out stuff and replace it with new. then just suck the new though.
while it doesnt mark paint isnt DOT5 more hydroscopic than Dot4? likes to absorb water from atmosphere - mixing with mineral Dot4 brake fluid recommended? even only traces of it [I know what glycol free coolant can do to some rubber (radiator cap seal) when mixed with glycol]
but you are right about DOT5 : that is synthetic and can't be mixed with DOT4/5.1
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