rear shock servicing

Wheels, shocks, forks, frame
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fred
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Post by fred » Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:03 pm

hi,i didnt do it right first time ages ago found out at pre mot last fri ,anyway got the right oil ,filled n bled the shock ,the lines off and ive stripped the resevour ,bladder is sound,so if i fill the line and conect to the shock in a overflowing state and ive got the resevour casing up in the air ,how much if any oil do i need to put in ? and is the reasembly ie bladder to ally dry and doesent have any sealer ,i think the gasle seal it ,cheers in advance fred
sorry . just read fill res then let it overflow when re fitting the bladder ,it is pretty common sence ,

SP_BOTT
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Post by SP_BOTT » Fri Jun 22, 2012 12:58 pm

Two questions please... how does the reservoir split, is the schrader bit threaded or does it push down and reveal an internal circlip.
Is the cap on the body removed by hitting something onto the two semi-circle cut-outs. ie this isn't threaded either (couldnt get this to move in any direction)

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Howie
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Post by Howie » Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:37 pm

The cap for the reservoir (which holds the valve) is held in place with an internal clip.

I removed mine by,

1/ Clean the area around the cap as best a possible, a bit wd40 or similar left over night will help
2/ empty the reservoir of oil & gas & remove the valve
3/ using a large enough socket, a massive G clamp (or similar) & a suitably shaped piece of wood, I managed to push the cap in to access the internal clip.

I also placed a bit of cardboard under the socket to save marking the cap (don't know why I bothered because it was already in a bad state).

Once I had picked the clip out, I then stuck my air gun into the hole where the valve sits & used compressed air to force the cap out.

The semi circle cut outs on the body of the shock are there to help remove the cap but these are as soft as cream cheese. I removed mine by using a small nail punch but even this has marked the body/cap. So I cleaned up the burrs using a fine file & now you would never know :D

Hope this helps

SP_BOTT
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Post by SP_BOTT » Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:44 pm

Yes thanks, did the main body tonight, and will try the reservoir tomorrow, the shock shaft is pitted, so using this as a trial, and then will do my good one myself, taking a little more care, (and saving £150 I hope :)) might get a few pics of the internals, although I thought there were some on here somewhere??

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philfingers
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Post by philfingers » Mon Jul 23, 2012 12:30 pm

Anyone know the correct seal size please? I'll then order one prior to removing the shock. Someone mentioned 14/40, is that correct?
Cheers,
Phil

dave32
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Post by dave32 » Mon Jul 23, 2012 5:02 pm

Yes 14mm ID and 40mm OD,there are 2 listed in this size one thats alloy another thats steel,you want the steel one,im pretty sure the Alloy one is for the Showa shocks and wont work properly in a KYB despite being the same size.
HTH
Dave

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philfingers
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Post by philfingers » Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:33 am

Thanks Dave but doh, I'm a bit stuck here

I mailed Off Road Only and asked them about Part nos's 29-658.A (All Balls 37-1010 http://www.allballsracing.com/seal-head/37-1010.html ) and 29-655.A (All Balls 37-1006 http://www.allballsracing.com/seal-head/37-1006.html ), which i presume are the two you're talking about.

and got the reply:-

We have both of the items that you have required about, but all of

the shock seal kits are made from 6061-T6 aluminum. They can

be viewed @ www.GOallballs.com


anyone any idea which part number I require please? I've searched their All Balls website and can't find anything relevant.

EDIT- looking at the above links the 37-1010 maybe the most suitable, as it mostly suits Kawasaki's off road range, i guess they use Showa also. Any comments?

37-1010 Application for Rear Shock Seal Head Kit
h***a CR125R 84-86, XR200R 84-02, XR250L 91-96, XR250R 84-95, Kawasaki KDX200 83-88, KL650 A (KLR) 92-07, KL650 E (KLR) 08-12, KX125 83-86, KX250 83-85, KX500 83-85, KXF250 Tecate 87-88, KXT250 Tecate 84-87, Suzuki DR650SE 96-11, LT-250R 85-92, RM125 82-86, RM85 05-12, RM85L 05-12, Yamaha YFZ450 04-09, YZ80 93-01, YZ85 02-12

dave32
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Post by dave32 » Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:51 pm

Hi Phil i replied to your PM :D
Maybe i should state here that you NEED to relace the SEAL HEAD as a complet unit,you can buy the bush and oil seal seperate but there impossible to change as there is an internal oil seal you cant get at,then factor in getting the bush out without damaging anything and its a no brainer,seal heads are in the 30 to £40 mark.
OK this is a bit confusing,the sealhead i got for my SHOWA shock off an h***a RS125 is a 29-658A ( i found the receipt from ORO).
I have a catalogue thats a a few years old from them,they list 2 x seal heads that are the right size (14x 40mm)
29-047A
29-047B
now the one you want for a KR1(or S) is a Top hat design,its heat treated black (im guessing as thats what it looks like) and it must be steel as its got rust on it after sitting in my toolbox.
I remember having a similar dilemna when it came to ordering,which one?
I just rang them and asked them to grab both of the above and describe them,im sure one is not a Top hat design.
If they only do alloy in these now then it wont matter as far as i can tell,its the dimensions that count.
Ive marked with a biro 20-047B so it probably is this one but ring them up to confirm.
The dimensions that might help are
From end to end (base to seal lip is 35mm)
Apart from the 14mm ID and 40mm OD there is not much else needed.
HTH everyone
:D
ATB
Dave

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philfingers
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Post by philfingers » Wed Jul 25, 2012 12:38 am

Thanks Dave,
After all that I pulled the shock off and the shaft is pitted anyway. There's little to no oil or damping in it and there's significant play in the bush too. So I'll take it along to Revs Racing [ www.revsracing.co.uk ]and let them do it. The last one was a GSXR1100K shock he did for me, it needed a new shaft too making too and the whole lot was about £100, which I think was good value, the seal and oil is £40 alone, for me to buy.
Thanks for the help anyway,

Phil

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gangus
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Re: rear shock servicing

Post by gangus » Thu Jan 05, 2017 1:38 pm

Good write up Dave!
I used an OHV spring compressor instead of a second set of fingers.
Cheers again!

dirk
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Re: rear shock servicing

Post by dirk » Sat Aug 26, 2017 9:04 pm

Dave32:
"The kr1s needs around 120 psi of nitrogen to work as it should."

I use air.
78 percent nitrogen is enough. :!:
this can also be done with the air pump.
i have about 9bar.
now and then check, and is good.
TZR250 (2MA) 1987
KR-1S 1990
RG500 1987
RGV 250 1992

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