Fork Seal Replacement
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Fork Seal Replacement
Does anyone have any advise or a How to on Replacing fork seals. I am just wondering if it is something I should tackle or if their are many special tools needed so I will not be able to do it myself. I have looked at the manual and it shows special tools but wondered if their are any workarounds
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This was well documented on the old forum, and there are two ways without special tools:
1. Compress the fork completely (hold the leg in vise and tie off with the strap which you compress it with, or get someone to hold it pressed in) then undo the large allen bolt at the bottom. Compressing the fork is apparently enough to lock the nut on other side, if it's tight may be tricky though. If you have a burp gun you might not even need to compress the fork. Everything can then be seperated.
2. With the dust seal removed tap a small hole through the seal so that a pointy screw can be started in the hole (without touching the stanchion), then screw it down til it pushes the seal up (usually needs a screw each side). The new seal is just slid down the stanchion.
I personally had only done this the second way, but only because I didn't know the other way til recently, I will be doing it the first way next time as it makes it easier to clean out (I think). The second way is quite tricky and requires care and time not to damage the stanchion.
1. Compress the fork completely (hold the leg in vise and tie off with the strap which you compress it with, or get someone to hold it pressed in) then undo the large allen bolt at the bottom. Compressing the fork is apparently enough to lock the nut on other side, if it's tight may be tricky though. If you have a burp gun you might not even need to compress the fork. Everything can then be seperated.
2. With the dust seal removed tap a small hole through the seal so that a pointy screw can be started in the hole (without touching the stanchion), then screw it down til it pushes the seal up (usually needs a screw each side). The new seal is just slid down the stanchion.
I personally had only done this the second way, but only because I didn't know the other way til recently, I will be doing it the first way next time as it makes it easier to clean out (I think). The second way is quite tricky and requires care and time not to damage the stanchion.
- dangerousdan
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problem with method 2 is that you don't change the bush, which should be changed everytime as it acts as another seal of sorts.
I can do a fork in about 20 mins on a good day. Use the old seals and bushes to tap the new ones in or you'll damage/puncture the new ones.
unless your really unlucky, method 1 will undo the allen bolt. falling that a buzz gun will be needed I'm afraid.
Good luck!
I can do a fork in about 20 mins on a good day. Use the old seals and bushes to tap the new ones in or you'll damage/puncture the new ones.
unless your really unlucky, method 1 will undo the allen bolt. falling that a buzz gun will be needed I'm afraid.
Good luck!
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I have finally got round to removing the forks (a slite side line of removing the engine for crank rebuild ) Anyway I have the forks still completely intact and thought I would just try and undo the allen key bolt at the bottom how tight is that . I was under the impression that it would spin quite easily and I would then need an air gun but I couldn't turn it even holding the fork in a vice
Is it because the fork is still together and I need to remove the springs before I can undo it? Or do I have a problem
Is it because the fork is still together and I need to remove the springs before I can undo it? Or do I have a problem
- corky
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you have to have the preload fully on and the fork under compression, for the spring to act fully,then if it doesnt move you will have to strip the fork and use the kwaka tool or a home made one to hold the cylinder while you undo the bolt..i made one out of tufnol, but cant find it at the moment...
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03 r6 race/trackbike
dr500 flat tracker project
plus a few more......x7,kdx125 etc
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